lindsay
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Posts: 189
Registered: 9-9-2003
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Lessons from the Road
Before I start, my post is part lesson, hopefully, and part cathartic for me as you'll read. My first driving experience on Hwy 1 was in April of 1998
from the border to Mulege with a caravan from the SD Natural History Museum. As some of you know, I worked in the Mulege Museum doing educational
programs with Mulege's high school and this first trip was to set up the program for the start of the school year in August.
I had never driven past La Fonda south of Rosarito and the dawn till dark ride was incredible but now I know we broke one of the golden rules of Baja
driving...traveling at night. We made it to Mulege without incident but as we came through the steep curves before Santa Rosalia, a man signaling us
with a trash can ablaze made me realize as a newbie that danger was part of this drive. Around the next curve a big rig had crashed into the side of
the mountain, fortunately not leaving the road and plunging down the ravine. As a first timer, I thought to myself, "I'm ready to get to Mulege".
After living in Mulege for that school year and the next, I always had a healthy respect for the cautionary road signs, learned when to pass and when
not to on the road, watch for chibas and vacas early and late in the day, stay off the roads as much as possible during Semana Santa and of course, I
would never repeat that first adventure's night drive. I would pass the shrines and think of the lives but I had never experienced the gut level,
trauma of what tragic possibilities can happen to any of us at any time. This past vacation in Mulege, I had that experience and I hope to never
repeat it.
My daughter and I go to Mulege to visit her father and relatives who are locals twice a year. Sara's dad, Francisco, picks us up at the Loreto airport
and we head to Mulege on Thursday, April 10th. I'm very fortunate that despite not being with Francisco any longer, we have both moved onto other
relationships and never married, we get along well and his family is very welcoming of my daughter and I...we have our Mulege family para siempre as
they say.
So, on Sunday, I take the bus with Sara down to Loreto to meet my boyfriend Mike who is coming to spend the rest of the week with us and Francisco's
family. We pick up our Hertz rent a car in Loreto at the airport and then Mike, Sara and I head for Mulege. About 15 minutes after the military
checkpoint on the road north from Loreto, I can see a car stopped ahead of us, it was a grey Jetta that was in front of us at the checkpoint. On the
rise of the road, on the side of the southbound lane, I see at grey/blue van that looks like it is turned sideways on the shoulder. As we get closer,
we realize that the Jetta has stopped about 100 yards before the van. Mike rolls down his window and looks out. He tells me it's a crash. He gets a
bit closer and stops behind the Jetta. Then, I hear the screams. The woman in the Jetta, I think she was German and living in Baja, is outside her car
door covering her mouth. I tell Mike to stay with Sara in the car and I get out to see what's going on. I think I heard Mike say, "It's bad, there's
people in the road". I get out and walk over to the German woman and her eyes have sheer terror in them and I think she blurts out, "It's awful, it's
really awful". I walk over towards the van which is off the road, the front right wheel gone, windshield completely gone and shattered in the road.
The van has rolled several times and the German woman says she thinks a rock fell down from the cerro hitting the windshield and causing the driver to
roll the van.
I catch my breath as I get closer and see bodies around the van, on the road and off to the side of it. I tell myself to stay calm and not get
overwhelmed by how horrible the accident is. The first people I check are a young woman who is holding her baby. She's in shock covered in blood
around her mouth with a gash that has cut her mouth and lip so deep, I can't tell how bad it is. I tell her not to move and that help is coming. Her
baby boy is nursing but I can't tell if he's just covered in his mother's blood or injured as well. I tell her that I'll be back and I'm going to
check on her family. As I get near the van, another child in shock, caked in dirt and blood is wailing as he sits in the rocks. A toddler is laying
nearby, another child, a girl, maybe three is in the road covered in blood also crying, a mother is near the front of the van also seriously injured.
Near her head and trapped under the wheel base where the tire is no longer, an infant is motionless. I could only see its legs and backside. The
driver is on the other side of the van stumbling, covered in blood from his head, a pool of blood stains the road nearby.
As help from other cars begins to increase, I run back to ask others for towels, water, blankets and at one car a Mexican family has a cell phone and
two of the group try to get a signal. We are near San Juan in a remote area so one man climbs high up on a cerro but still can't get a signal. One car
turns back to get help at the military checkpoint and I pray help will come soon. After collecting water, blankets and some towels, I go back up to
the van. I tell Mike to stay with Sara and he gets out some books to distract her from the screaming and trauma just a few hundred yards away. While
heading up to the van, I see Senor Camerena from Santa Rosalia, a man who owns a hardware store on the town's main drag and always someone who was
kind with his saludos when I lived in Mulege. He and his sons were like a vision of strength in jeans, boots and ranchero hats when they walked up the
road with me to the van...a familiar face in the middle of this awful scene. We exchanged greetings and I told him what was going on. His sons raced
back to their pick-up truck for blankets and we began to cover everyone as shock was already present in each person.
After about an hour, we decided to head onto to Mulege. Many people were at the scene and we didn't want Sara, 4, to be exposed to any more. As we
drove past, I sat in the back seat and covered her eyes. We arrived in Mulege before dark and never was I so relieved to be off the road. As the week
of vacation continued not a day went by without thoughts of that family and the images I saw. Thank you for the opportunity to get some of this out
here and it helps.
Many friends in Mulege had heard of the accident and I was told different information about the family. Some died, how many I don't know. I would like
to know and will try to find out more, maybe there will be a way for me to help the survivors through my friends/family in Mulege. I counted 3 adults
and 6 children so I know that this experience will change them forever. I know that I have been changed forever by them.
The lessons I will take from them run deep. As I was with them, offering water, covering their bodies, I felt so helpless to end their suffering or
even to do more to help them medically. I'm back in San Diego now and I have promised myself that I will take a Red Cross course here with the hope
that I will never need to use it but I will be ready if that time comes. I urge all of you to do the same or refresh your skills if it's been awhile.
What else can I say?? Driving is a wonderful adventure in Baja and I have had many that I'll never forget for their spirit of discovery and
friendship. I also hope with all my heart that I will never face the horror of the road again. I will reflect a little bit more when passing each
shrine and say a prayer for each lost soul. Be safe all nomads and thank you again for listening to my thoughts...
P.S. Pompano and Bruce, sorry that I missed saying "hi" in town...a lot going on but a really rewarding trip despite the experiences I've written
about here!!
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PacO
Nomad
Posts: 173
Registered: 1-19-2005
Location: waiting for the sun
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It sounds to me as if no one was restrained in the vehicle. Did that appear to be the case to you?
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
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Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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any training is better than none. although, out in the middle of nowhere all the training in the world helps only to a point.
i used to see trauma like that on a regular basis but have yet to come across such a devestating scene in baja. i hope i never do!!!
i hope that you get the needed closure by sharing the experience with us all, if only to serve as a reminder of how quickly a good thing can go bad.
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Barry A.
Select Nomad
Posts: 10007
Registered: 11-30-2003
Location: Redding, Northern CA
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Mood: optimistic
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These stories need to be told------
Lindsay------
I grieve for each of the people exposed to this disaster----the trauma caused can only be immagined, no matter how well you describe it. The trajedy
to the family in the Van-----cannot be described or completely understood.
I believe that you do us all a very important service by relating this, and I applaud you for it. We need to remember that things like this really do
happen, and we all have to be cautious at all times----not just at night. Your point about us each knowing at least the basics of First Aid is so
right-----
Thank you for writing this for all of us to ponder, and hopefully we will remember, and take care.
Barry
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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Sad.
Thanks for sharing a sad and interesting story. I hope we all learn from you first-hand experience. In a world filled with givers and takers, you
are obviously a giver.
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lindsay
Nomad
Posts: 189
Registered: 9-9-2003
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Gracias Nomads
Thanks to everyone who has posted their kind thoughts and support. I appreciate this venue for letting me share these feelings which I'm still
processing. This morning when Mike and I drove the car back for our flight from Loreto to SD, our thoughts were definitely of last Sunday's events and
the family as we passed the scene at San Juan. The van is gone but some debris from the car is still strewn along the road. As one nomad asked, I
doubt that anyone had a seatbelt on given that everyone was outside the car but I can only speculate about what happened to them. I will try to find
out more and if any of you in the area learn more about this family, I would appreciate knowing how they are and if any help with medical areas or
other support is needed.
Gracias again to everyone for all of your concern and kind posts.
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capn.sharky
Senior Nomad
Posts: 686
Registered: 9-4-2003
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Lindsay---I am sorry you had to experience this accident. I, too, have seen a couple of bad ones on the Baja road. One young man was decapitated
when his truck rolled over on the Santa Rosalia grade. Going too fast and no seat belt. I see the roadside shrines and crosses and think of the lost
lives. I see young people (some with families) going 80 miles per hour on the highway...usually Americans. They fail to understand that there can be
a large price to pay to arrive just a few minutes early....or a day early. I admire you for stopping and helping in the face of such carnage. You
may have made a difference in one or two of their lives. Many of our fellow Americans drink and drive down there. I think some of us check our
brains at the border. I hope we will all reflect on your story when the urge to go over the safe speed limit occurs. Thank you for sharing your
story.
If there is no fishing in heaven, I am not going
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vgabndo
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3461
Registered: 12-8-2003
Location: Mt. Shasta, CA
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Mood: Checking-off my bucket list.
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Thanks for telling your story so well...
I've just checked and found that now that no one is looking over my shoulder, I've let my First Aid/CPR card expire. I WILL do something about it.
Thank you.
I recently broke down very near the site of your trauma, and had the experience of accepting a ride with a local in a beat-up old car with no obvious
seatbelts. Most of the way to Loreto the speedo read 75 mph...in the dark.
I have a favorite Mexican road sign:
Undoubtedly, there are people who cannot afford to give the anchor of sanity even the slightest tug. Sam Harris
"The situation is far too dire for pessimism."
Bill Kauth
Carl Sagan said, "We are a way for the cosmos to know itself."
PEACE, LOVE AND FISH TACOS
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latitude26n
Banned
Posts: 124
Registered: 8-7-2004
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Lindsay, you did good !
You stopped at the scene of this horrific event. You attempted, or would have been willing to provide assistance if you had some supplies and felt
comfortable with a little knowledge. Yes, first aid classes are beneficial and may have been little helpful in this event. But given the scene you
described, the main benefit of any 1st aid administered would have had more of a human impact- the time spent with each victim would reassure them
that they weren?t alone during the long wait for the help they really needed which was to get to the hospital. This waiting is the hardest thing to do
given the chaos of the scene. A victim may not remember the splint you put on, but they will never forget that someone stayed with them.
The truck & camper that we take to Baja is an emergency medical/survival clinic on wheels. Mr Latitude (a paramedic), and Me ( nurse) certainly
don't live for our jobs, but are geeky about watching survival shows and playing out various scenarios that could help us someday when we're surfing
alone, kayak fishing out too far, or driving our old rickety dune buggy out in the boonies.
We're called upon now and then to remove an urchin from a foot or a palm espina from the hand by the few folks in town who we've divulged our
occupations to (we keep a low profile because we rather not start deliverin? babies), and have treated various other ailments and injuries over the
years. But that Highway, or any road you travel in Mexico, is a whole different world when you?re talking about trauma. For this we have a satellite
phone and medical evacuation, local, and other emergency numbers always within reach (and hope that one of us will be conscious enough to use them).
Yes, 1st aid is helpful, but CPR is mandatory. With the proper technique you could pop a grape that was blocking a baby?s airway, or the carne asada
that the abuelita was choking on. CPR?s usefulness is limited during a massive cardiac event that occurs in remote regions of Baja, but on this
peninsula surrounded by water, I can?t emphasize enough how effective CPR can be victims of ?submersion?. By knowing CPR, you can make an event a
NEAR-drowning.
I?m sorry you had this experience and thank you for sharing it. I keep reviewing it in my mind and have formulated my own ?what I might have done?
scenario, and I?m sure it has had the same impact on others.
[Edited on 4-19-2005 by latitude26n]
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bajajudy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6886
Registered: 10-4-2004
Location: San Jose del Cabo,BCS
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I am in Mulege. Just came by a semi over on its side somewhere near what you describe. The truck had rolled...the driver looked ok although wide
eyed.
I had just commented to my husband about all the skid marks on the road...not just here.
You are very brave....
Abrazos
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lindsay
Nomad
Posts: 189
Registered: 9-9-2003
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As I posted before, thanks everyone for your kind responses and thoughts. Latitude26n, as someone in the medical field, I appreciated your comments
about the importance of just letting people know that they are not alone during such a traumatic experience. At the time, I was more focused on the
severity of their injuries and not knowing what was best to do but I realize through your post that just being able to offer some comfort is
meaningful...and as you added not easy when you're in the middle of such a horrible scene.
After this experience, I really also appreciate those who serve others through various careers in health care:doctors, nurses, paramedics,
firefighters, etc. To be able to deal with trauma and help those in need is a tremendous gift and one that I respect a great deal.
I still don't know how this family is doing and anyone in the Mulege/Loreto area with the ability to check at the Loreto hospital/clinic, I would like
to know. One man working at the airport in Loreto told me that he thought maybe some family members were sent down to La Paz for treatment. If anyone
can post information that would be great. My daughter's relatives in Mulege will also try to follow up. I appreciate any updates. The accident was on
April 10th near San Juan about 15 minutes north of the military checkpoint outside of Loreto going towards Mulege.
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Tommy A
Nomad
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Registered: 5-19-2004
Location: Manhattan Beach, Ca
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It seems like most if not all of the people in the accident were in shock. Found this article, hope it may help the next person who is in that
situation.
How to treat shock
Shock is a medical condition that accompanies serious illness or injury. Traumatic shock is life-threatening, i.e., the body's vital functions are
experiencing insufficient blood flow or lack of oxygen in the blood. Injuries that result in loss of blood, loss of body fluid, impaired respiration,
loss of nervous control, severe burns, infections or heart problems can lead to shock.
Shock might be fatal is not treated promptly and properly, but symptoms can go unnoticed. An accident victim may appear only slightly injured yet
still be suffering from shock.
Any or all of the following symptoms can indicate shock; pale or bluish skin; moist and clammy skin; overall weakness; rapid, weak pulse; shallow,
rapid or irregular breathing, or deep sighing; unusual thirst; vomiting; dilated pupils; restlessness; unresponsiveness; and, in severe cases,
possible unconsciousness.
In an accident or other emergency, first restore breathing and control severe bleeding or pain. Then, seek medical attention.
Do not move the victim if he/she has head, neck or back injuries unless in danger of further injury. Keep the victim lying down. If the victim has a
pale face, clammy skin, obvious blood loss or bloody vomit, elevate the feet 8 to 12 inches. If the victim is experiencing chest pain, has a red face,
or has difficulty in breathing, elevate the victim's head and shoulders slightly to make breathing easier. If the victim has no obvious injuries and
the reason for shock is unknown, leave him/her lying flat.
Watch the victim closely for changes in consciousness. if the suggested method of placing a victim in shock makes the victim uncomforable, discontinue
that method and try something else. Check to see that the victim is not getting chilled. Keep comfortably warm, and if possible, place a blanket under
a victim who is on the ground or a damp surface.
Most important: reassure the victim. Gentleness, kindness and understanding play a critical role in treating a shock victim.
COPYRIGHT 1993 Vegetus Publications
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group
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The Sculpin
Nomad
Posts: 401
Registered: 9-3-2002
Location: Back in the Saddle
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Mood: Riding into the Sunset, looking for a sunrise.
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Great job, Lindsay with what you did. It takes guts to come on to a scene like that and just observe. It takes even more to go down and talk/touch and
comfort those hurt.
I'm always amazed that locals don't wear their seatbelts! Of all people, they know what can happen when you don't buckle up. Transplanted gringos are
even worse! After decades of having "buckle up" beat into them, within 6 months they're driving around without seatbelts! What's up with that!!!!
Driving south of Todos Santos, I looked into my rearview mirror to see a toyota pickup start fishtailing out of control. In slow motion, he
overcorrected and rolled 4 times onto the shoulder. I watched as all sorts of crap came flying out of that truck, including 2 kids. I stopped my
truck, told the wife and kids to get all the blankets/sleeping bags and water they could get their hands on and to follow me. Even though I saw no one
around, I was not the first to the crash. Guys started to come out of nowhere. First thing we (locals and us) did was check for broken bones (and yes,
life...gulp!) and what not. Luckily, it was all bruises and gashes. We laid the kids (4 of 'em) down in the shade and covered 'em up and gave them
water, tended to the Dad driver, and calmed Gramma down. What saved her was she was so big that she acted as her own airbag. It wasa tough getting her
out of the truck. We then cleaned the debris off the street (pieces of truck, cigarettes, empty and dry beer cans,handbags and suitcases, and put the
truck back on it's wheels. All this in a matter of 15 minutes or so.
What happened next was a little bit of a shock. Some of the local crew had seen what happened (this whole episode was in spanish) and thanked me very
much for our help but suggested I leave quickly. Since this was a single vehicle crash, and I was the only gringo, the cops would "naturally" think I
had something to do with it, and would detain us for awhile. I best be on my way.
Wow!
So we left. 30 seconds later, I was shaking uncontrolably, going maybe 20mph. The kids screamed I was going to fast!
Talk about not getting closure...never did find out what eventually happened, but everytime we go by that piece of road, we slow down a little.
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lindsay
Nomad
Posts: 189
Registered: 9-9-2003
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Tommy A, good information you posted on shock symptoms and Sculpin, your story shows the best of people when faced with unexpected events. As others
have said in their responses to my story, these experiences make us reflect and hopefully remind us of the gifts we have in our lives (family &
friends) and how we need to appreciate them. The tragedies of life come in many forms and we can't always see them coming as I experienced on that
road north of Loreto but I know that day made me think about how precious our time here is and I hope the importance of that realization doesn't fade.
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