David K
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Entire El Camino Real series in one post.
Here are all 11 parts of the Finding (the) El Camino Real in Baja in one place. I edited the one part from Calamajue to Santa Maria to reflect recent
travels by Don Jorge and myself. These articles have been on the Baja History and Literature forum, spread out, with replies. This may end up back
there replacing the multi part posts... But, in case some Baja nuts didn't see these, I am posting here, first. Enjoy!
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja, Part 1
?El Camino Real? means The Royal Road or as Harry Crosby calls it ?The King's Highway?. There actually are many Camino Reals in the New World, built
after the Spanish conquered most of the Western Hemisphere.
The purpose was to connect important points and population centers in the new territories. Gold and other treasures, including tax revenues, were
transported back to the king, in part on the various ?Royal Roads?.
In California, we are most familiar with El Camino Real as the route Franciscan padre Junipero Serra traveled when he established a chain of missions
here, beginning in 1769. Today, four-lane paved expressways bear the name El Camino Real wherever the new street was built on or near the old trail.
Junipero Serra and the El Camino Real both began not in San Diego, but 700 miles further south, in LORETO.
In fact, long before Serra and his Franciscan brothers came to Baja California, the chain of missions and the connecting Camino Real were well
established by the Jesuit Order (Society of Jesus) of the Catholic Church, starting in 1697!
After the end of the mission period in Baja, much of the Camino Real continued to be the main route of transportation until the automobile arrived on
the scene.
Highway 1, from El Rosario to Tijuana is built on or very near the original trail with only a couple of exceptions.
Three modern travel writers have documented the El Camino Real to help us find the old trail as it winds through Baja. Unlike Alta California, almost
no signs or paved roads show the route in Baja from Loreto to El Rosario.
The first modern travel account was written by Arthur North, in 1905, named Camp and Camino in Lower California . North is considered to be the first
?tourist? to travel the length of Baja for adventure and research.
The next detailed account is an unpublished report (with maps) by Howard Gulick in 1955. Gulick was researching Baja for his future Lower California
Guidebook . He noted the location of older trails he saw crossing the newer auto dirt roads both from the ground and from aerial photos he was
privileged to take. Gulick and co-author Peter Gerhard rode with mules on sections of El Camino Real, as well.
The unpublished report and personal conversations with Gulick was of great assistance to the third author, Harry Crosby in his research for The King's
Highway in Baja California , published in 1974. Crosby traveled the entire route of the old trail by mule with local guides. His book contains many
photos and maps of the entire Camino Real.
From the above named authors, I will attempt to provide you with details of the location of El Camino Real in the following installments. Have your
Baja Almanac handy. http://www.baja-almanac.com
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 2), Loreto to Comondu
Baja Almanac Page 42:
From the first California mission of LORETO to the second, Mision San Francisco Javier, the mission trail utilized the canyon of LAS PARRAS to the
first site of Mision San Javier which today is called RANCHO VIEJO. The modern auto road is built in the same canyon.
One tenth of a mile west of RANCHO VIEJO the Camino Real splits. To the left (south) goes the trail to SAN JAVIER (5.5 mi.). To the right (west) the
Camino Real heads for Comondu and beyond.
On the Camino Real, 1.0 mi. from RANCHO VIEJO the old trail is joined by the Comondu auto road coming from the Loreto-San Javier road (junction at 1.0
mi. past Rancho Viejo).
2.2 mi. from Rancho Viejo another trail joins in from the south. This was the direct Camino Real from San Javier to Comondu, branching from the
Loreto-San Javier trail at EL HORNO (Los Hornoso in the Almanac). This small triangle of trails shows the Jesuits built many roads to offer direct
routes, much like modern highways.
4.0 miles from Rancho Viejo, the Camino Real turns left from the Comondu auto road and follows ARROYO SANTA ISABEL.
Baja Almanac Page 41:
EL PALMARITO is just south of the Camino Real which goes to a visita (visiting station) of San Javier known as Santa Rosalia (renamed Santa
Roasalillita). A stone chapel ruin remained in 1955. Santa Rosalillita is not shown in the Almanac, but the Camino Real is. The old trail goes
westerly for about 5 miles from the edge of the map (just above El Palmarito), then turns almost to the north and goes to QUINI.
The original Camino Real continued north from Quini to San Miguel Comondu (reaches top of Almanac page 41 at letter O, crosses the extreme lower left
corner of Almanac page 40, and reaches SAN MIGUEL COMONDU, on map page 39.
When the newer mission of SAN JOSE COMONDU was moved to just north of San Miguel, the Camino Real was re-alligned at Quini to go more directly to San
Jose Comondu passing between CERRO CAPI and CERRO COLORADO, on Almanac page 40.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 3), Comondu to La Purisima
Baja Almanac page 39:
The original Jesuit Camino Real left the Comondu valley at SAN MIGUEL (de Comondu). However, after that mision was closed in 1737 and moved
to/absorbed by the relocated SAN JOSE de COMONDU (just two miles away), the "King's Highway" was also moved.
From SAN JOSE COMONDU the trail first went to EL PABELLON and a modern graded dirt road was built on or near the mission trail in this section.
From EL PABELLON, the Camino Real is shown partly in the Baja Almanac going directly towards LA PURISIMA.
The trail passes just south of a peak named CERRO JESUS DEL MONTE. Jesus del Monte was an important point on the old trail because of a large tinaja
(water hole) about 20 feet by 60 feet in size. This spot became a visita of the mission at Comondu and a cut stone chapel was still visible and
photographed by Crosby, 30 years ago.
The name 'Jesus del Monte' was derived form a natural formation on a near-by volcanic cinder cone that resembled Jesus and the cross to early
travelers.
The next point on the old trail is EL RENEGADO then the trail passes along the east side of CERRO TEZONTLE, a mountain once mined for porous building
stone that was highly esteemed.
The next place name on the original Baja road was a little oasis called SAN VICENTE.
When Harry Crosby arrived at Rancho San Vicente he was made welcome by Maximiliano Arce and presented with fruit from Arce's orchard. One fruit that
was interesting was the 'limon real' (royal lemon), a pear shaped citrus that appeared to be a hybrid of lemon and grapefruit.
From San Vicente the Camino Real continued to LA PURISIMA and dropped into that valley via switchbacks, that can still be seen.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja, (Part 4) La Purisima to Guadalupe
Baja Almanac page 39:
The Camino Real leaves La Purisima to the north, climbing directly out of the canyon and crosses MESA LAS MESAS then decends in ARROYO PURISIMA VIEJA.
The old trail was badly erroded when Crosby travel here, 30 years ago. But, it can be seen where it joins the Paso Hondo automobile road about 7 miles
northwest from San Isidro.
PURISIMA VIEJA was the original site of the mission La Purisima Concepcion. The Jesuits tried to locate their missions close to Indian villages
('rancherias'), but often the water source, which was enough for drinking, was not large enough for also growing crops, so a new site was established.
PASO HONDO and SAN JOSE DE GUAJADEMI (San Jose de los Arces) is on the Camino Real. At San Jose, the trail has a major junction.
The oldest route went right (northeast) directly for Mulege, near the gulf. In the 1760's, most travelers used a new route that took the Camino real
northwest along ARROYO AGUA VERDE and headed for the mission of Guadalupe, in the mountains.
Baja Almanac page 36:
Some of El Camino Real is shown starting at the bottom of the map by 112?15' longitude (between I & J). ARROYO LAS CHIVAS is reached and where the
Camino Real continues north, another trail (traveled by Crosby) makes a slight detour and goes to EL REPARITO, LAS CHIVAS, EL TULE, LA VINORAMA and
rejoins the old camino at SAN MARTIN.
The next section goes over a ridge to ARROYO SAN RAYMUNDO then upstream to SAN MIGUEL, a major visita of Mision Guadalupe. Ruins are still visible at
San Miguel.
SAN ESTANISLAO and SAN JUAN are along El Camino Real as it continues northward, finally arriving at MISION GUADALUPE (1720-1795).
From the diary of Fr. Junipero Serra, 1769
On the Camino Real, between La Purisma and Guadalupe, Serra had an interesting encounter...
"I met there with about ten Indian families: men, women, boys and girls. When I asked them what they were doing there, they answered, with much
sorrow, that they belonged to the Guadalupe Mission, not to any particular rancheria, but to the principal village, and that the Father, for lack of
food, had been forced to send them to the mountains to look for food, and that, not being used to that way of life, they had no success."
"They suffered very much, especially at seeing their babies starve and hearing them cry..."
Serra provided relief with his supply of ground corn from which he prepared 'atole'. He then instructed the families to return to Guadalupe, as he was
aware a supply ship had arrived at Mulege for Mision Guadalupe's needs.
They thanked the good Father by singing a hymn about the love of God, Serra found very touching.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 5), Guadalupe to San Ignacio
Baja Almanac pages 36, 33, 32:
From the mission of Guadalupe, the Camino Real heads north over a cuesta (grade) and drops into ARROYO SAN SEBASTIAN (go to Map 33).
SAN SEBASTIAN (shown west of its true location) is/was on the Camino Real where Arroyo San Sebastian joins ARROYO BOCA DE MAGDALENA. Here, the old
trail turns west and follows the new arroyo upstream (go to Map 32).
Rancho EL GATO is on the old trail where it turns to the northwest and heads to the grade known as Cuesta de San Venancio. Named by Padre Lizasoain in
1762, its summit is 3,500 feet high and offers the most 'magificent view', per Harry Crosby. The Jesuit road was heavily overgrown, but offered the
best preserved switchback grade of the entire El Camino Real, Harry writes. A newer trail is seen going north to EL RINCON (shown in the Almanac).
LA HIGUERA and LA CANDELARIA are the next two ranchos on the old trail, the second operated by the Villavicencio brothers (Anastasio, Juan and
Francisco) when Crosby rode here.
The Camino Real climbs another cuesta and drops into ARROYO SANTA CRUZ, following it northwest to SAN LUIS and on to SAN IGNACIO.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 6), San Ignacio to Santa Gertrudis
Baja Almanac pages 32, 29, 28, 25:
Two major routes were used as El Camino Real north from San Ignacio. One kept to the Pacific side of the Sierra San Francisco and the other, on the
gulf side. Perhaps one was used in the hot months and the other in the cooler months. Or, it depended on which visita needed a visit?
The Pacific Side Camino Real leaves San Ignacio going slightly west of true north and drops into ARROYO SATANCIO following it up into the mountains...
Go to Map 29.
From just east of 113? longitude, the trail goes north, then off the map at about 27?35' latitude. NOTE: The auto road shown betwen Santa Marta and
San Francisco de la Sierra does NOT exist, this is a mule trail. Go to Map 28.
Arrive at SAN FRANCISCO DE LA SIERRA, once a visiting station of San Ignacio and perhaps an early choice for the next planned mission to the north (to
be called 'Dolores del Norte').
Ruins of the old chapel walls were identified as 'Dolores' to the first outsiders (Choral Pepper and others with the Erle Stanley Gardner sponsored
helicopter expedition of 40 years ago).
From tiny San Francisco, the Camino Real is shown in the Almanac as it goes west then northwest, finally dropping down into San Pablo Canyon to the
visita of SAN PABLO. See photos of San Pablo and the El Camino Real at http://davidksbaja.com/bajamissions/page7.html .
From the visita, continue down ARROYO SAN PABLO to (just past) the first MESA SAN PABLO, where it climbs to the north and goes straight to SAN
CASIMIRO. From there, the Almanac once again shows the ECR as it heads straight north. Go to Map 25...
After crossing the 28? parallel, the ECR curves to the notheast and soon reaches Santa Gertrudis.
The Gulf Side Camino Real is shown in the Almanac leaving San Ignacio straight north, veering east of CERRO SANTIAGO and dropping into ARROYO EL
INFIERNO, and follows it upstream. Go to Map 29...
SANTA MARTA was a visita and a resting place for Serra and others on the Camino Real. Continue north into ARROYO EL ROSARITO to the flat plain of SAN
GREGORIO. Here Crosby comments on how nowhere had the road (ECR) been so wide, straight, and clearly marked. Go to Map 25...
It is difficult to plot the ECR on the Almanac at the point where it leaves the San Gregorio plain. Many place names used by Crosby are not in the
Almanac plus there were several newer detour trails.
One of the El Camino Real routes is shown as a trail in the Almanac. It goes almost to SAN CASIMIRO then turns north to EL CARRIZO, joins with the
Pacific Side ECR and reaches Santa Gertrudis.
A far east route goes from ARROYO SAN GREGORIO north through SAN JUAN DE LAS PARRAS, then swings westward and follows ARROYO SANTA GERTRUDIS to the
mission.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 7), Santa Gertrudis to San Borja
Baja Almanac pages 25, 23, 22:
As in the previous section (Sam Ignacio to Santa Gertrudis), more than one trail was the Camino Real. This first description will be the route
traveled by Serra (probably) and Harry Crosby, known as the 'Paraiso route' by Howard Gulick.
The old camino is shown in the Almanac as it goes straight northwest from Santa Gertrudis to RANCHO LA UNION then just west of MESA CALMALLI VIEJO and
MESA SANTA CRUZ to RANCHO TRES PALMAS.
The trail from Tres Palmas was sandy as it follows the ARROYO SAN SEBASTION (called Arroyo Tres Palmas by Crosby), but becomes rocky as it climbs up
the sierra to RANCHO SAN SEBASTION.
The Camino Real again climbs and goes through a pass just west of San Sebastion then follows the west edge of Arroyo San Sebastion on a mesa where
Crosby reports a grand view back to Scammon's Lagoon.
Now on Almanac page 22:
EL RANCHO is reached, seen on the edge of the map. EL RODEO is the next place mentioned by Crosby and is shown in the Almanac before the (shown) trail
reaches the edge of the great canyon of ARROYO PARAISO.
The Camino Real was steep where it dropped off the mesa and required an hour of rock moving by Crosby and company to rebuild washed out portions. They
reached the bottom and traveled up the canyon to RANCHO EL PARAISO.
A quarter mile beyond Rancho El Paraiso is the grade to the top of the north side of the canyon. LAS CABRAS then COMPOSTELA are passed as this route
of the Camino Real goes north to reach MISION SAN BORJA.
The other routes are known as the 'Pacific' and the 'Gulfo Camino'...
The Pacific route stayed out of the high sierra until turning east to pass through the visita of SANTA ANA and on to San Borja.
The Gulfo Camino was partly traveled by Arthur North, around 1905. It branches from the Paraiso route near CALMALLI VIEJO, passes CERRO EL VALLE going
north-notheast to VALLE LA BOCANA. Along the way was an important tinaja (water hole) called Santa Maria. We visited Tinaja Santa Maria in 2001 and a
year and a half later: http://davidksbaja.com/1202/page2.html
From La Bocana, the Gulfo Camino travels up VALLE SAN PEDRO and crosses the mountain ridge just south of the 28?40' line on page 23. Go to page 22...
The water hole EL AGUAJE is passed (see photos of it at http://davidksbaja.com/neal/page4.html ) as is RANCHO SAN GREGORIO (see photos at http://davidksbaja.com/401/page5.html ) on the way to Mision San Borja.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 8), San Borja to Calamajue
Baja Almanac pages 21, 20, 18:
Mision San Borja is just off the bottom of Map 21 at the 113?45' line.
Unlike most of the previous sections of the old mission trail, much of the route north of San Borja is near auto. roads. Photos and GPS by Neal Johns
and I can help you find parts of this trail, which was the 'Baja highway' before automobiles!
Unfortunately, the good road builders (who were the Jesuits) were removed from California by orders of the king not long after pushing north from San
Borja. They hadn't the time to construct the Camino Real to the standards of the southern sections. The Franciscans only did some 'cargo' trail
building between Mision Santa Maria and Gonzaga Bay as it was necessary for their Alta California project. As a result, most of the Camino Real north
of San Borja resembles little more than a cattle trail, today.
From San Borja the old trail and modern road are basically the same for the first few miles then the ECR passes just west of CERRO COLORADO DE SAN
BORJA, whereas the auto road swings more west.
Neal believes he found where it rejoins the auto road, see a photo near the trail of Neal driving 'through' a boojum tree! http://davidksbaja.com/neal2/page4.html
North of the above photo location, the Camino Real turns west to pass through CANON EL JARAZO, then north between ARROYO AGUA AMARGA and ARROYO VERDE
and crosses the L.A. Bay highway at the Kilometer 30 Marker.
Highway construction in 1974 obliterated the trail on either side of the new road, but a short hike will reveal it. I found what I believe to be the
ECR, to the south at http://davidksbaja.com/703
On the north side of the L.A. Bay highway, the Camino Real turns from north to northwest, at the base of a hill. See my photo at http://davidksbaja.com/403/page13.html
Now, the Camino Real heads to Tinaja de Yubay, via CANADA BENTANCOURT going northwest, and along the east side of MESA LUZ DE MEXICO.
Almanac page 20: Not shown in the Almanac is the famous tinaja (water hole/ pond), it is in ARROYO YUBAY midway betwen CERRO LA PALMITA and MESA YUBAY
(in the canyon indicated by the 700 meter contour line).
The Camino Real travelers had to take a short detour up the Yubay canyon to reach the water. Neal Johns has the GPS for a few points on the old trail,
at the bottom of http://davidksbaja.com/neal2/page5.html Also, Neal has great photos of Yubay starting at http://davidksbaja.com/neal2/page2.html
Continuing northwest, the El Camino Real follows the base of the SIERRA LA ASAMBLEA, east of EL CRUCERO at Highway One.
Almanac page 18:
Inside CANADA AGUAJITO HIGUERAS was a water source for early travelers. The old trail comes to or crosses the auto road going to Calamajue. Here, they
are parallel until they enter Calamajue Canyon where they merge, as no other route is possible, in the narrow, water filled canyon.
Where the auto road climbs a steep grade to leave the Calamajue river (heading for Coco's Corner and Gonzaga), the trail and road to the mission head
to the opposite side of the arroyo and up to a terrace overlooking the valley.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 9), Calamajue to Santa Maria
Baja Almanac page 18:
From the terrace where the short lived mission at Calamajue stood, this final section of the Jesuit trail crossed the broad arroyo and climbed the
steep north side, as does the auto road.
Crosby notes seeing signs of the trail just west of the road as they both head north to where passage over the ridge of SIERRA CALAMAJUE is possible.
Howard Gulick found the trail in 1952, also to the left (west) of the road and notes that the Camino Real passes the mouth of a canyon called El
Culebrado (a snake like winding canyon) before crossing the road at LAS ARRASTRAS and comes to a water hole called San Francisquito, 0.6 mi. past Las
Arrastras.
In 1769, Junipero Serra left Calamajue a little after noon and arrived at 'San Francisco' (San Francisquito) that day.
The name San Fancisquito had been applied to many sites in the region, including the larger part of what most call 'Gonzaga Bay': Ensenada de San
Francisquito. The Mexican topos and Baja Almanac switched the names of the two halves of 'Gonzaga Bay', however.
From the water hole (and later an abandoned mining camp) of San Francisquito, the old trail follows the arroyo of San Francisquito, but called ARROYO
LAS ARRASTRAS in the Almanac.
Crosby notes seeing excellent signs of the Jesuit road higher and on the west side of the arroyo from the auto road.
Both Gulick and Crosby say the Camino Real follows the arroyo to its junction with ARROYO SANTA MARIA, however recent muleback Camino Real traveler,
Baja Bucko, says the trail short cuts to the mouth of the Santa Maria canyon and passes the palm oasis of Las Palmitas at 29?40.35'/ 114?28.29? Some
excellent photos of this oasis are at http://www.timsbaja.com/jan03trip/jan03trip3.html
From Las Palmitas (also spelled: Las Palmytas or Las Palmas) the trail heads for the mouth of Santa Maria canyon...
Junipero Serra and likely the Jesuits before, went right up the canyon, called 'El Cajon' and climbed up the steep side to enter the valley containing
the mission. This trail is now called the 'Indian Trail' as the El Camino Real was moved out of the canyon after Serra's trip to Alta California. The
Indian trail is visible in this aerial photograph (bottom photo): http://davidksbaja.com/missionsm/page6.html
This 'El Cajon' canyon route was so dangerous that a new route was established which stayed out of the canyon, to the north. This was the route
traveled on mule by Crosby, Baja Bucko, and Don Jorge.
Photos of the Camino Real where it leaves Arroyo Santa Maria at 29?41.733'/ 114?28.175' and heads northwest are at: http://davidksbaja.com/1102/page6.html
In November, 2003, I traveled further up the Camino Real from the previous year but did not have enough daylight to reach the mission (allow 6 hours).
Photos and GPS at: http://davidksbaja.com/1103/page2.html
Soon after, in December, 2003, Don Jorge continued on to reach the mission and returned via the Indian Trail and canyon (Arroyo Santa Maria). Photos,
GPS, and topo map at http://southcoastfarms.com/gonzaga_to_mision_santa_maria.htm
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 10), Santa Maria to San Fernando
Baja Almanac page 16:
Santa Maria de los Angeles (located midway between Catavina and Gonzaga Bay's Punta Final) was the last mission founded by the Jesuit order, in 1767.
They built a chapel from palm logs before being expelled from California by order of the king of Spain. The Franciscans replaced the Jesuits, and
built the adobe church and residence structure whose ruins are viewed today. See http://davidksbaja.com/missionsm for photos by Neal Johns and Baja Mur.
Franciscan padre, Junipero Serra had a cargo trail constructed from Santa Maria northeast to Bahia San Luis Gonzaga. Remains of a warehouse built by
the padres are still visible: http://davidksbaja.com/1102/page4.html At Gonzaga Bay, supplies were off loaded from ships to supply Santa Maria and subsequently the first
Franciscan mission in California, San Fernando Velicata.
Santa Maria was abandoned as a mission in 1769, but continued as a visiting station and rest stop on the El Camino Real.
Baja Almanac page 16:
From Santa Maria, the auto road and trail took the same path to the peninsular divide: http://davidksbaja.com/403/page3.html . There-abouts, the ECR went more northerly to a water hole known as San Antonio, then northwest to a spring
called San Nicolas, located on the upper portion of Arroyo Catavinacito (the arroyo that crosses Hwy. 1 north of Catavina, by the pictograph cave).
From San Nicolas the trail headed west to Agua Dulce, an important spring located just north of Highway 1, about 8 miles east of Rancho Sonora: http://davidksbaja.com/1102 .
From Agua Dulce the old trail and the old transpeninsular dirt road were very near each other, except that the El Camino Real went to the south of
Rancho San Agustin (as does Hwy. 1).
It should be noted that the Mexican topo maps (and Baja Almanac) never plotted the new highway correctly and just 'paved' the old road on the map in
the section from near San Agustin to San Roque, page 16. The highway actually parallels the old road, about 1-2 miles south and west of it.
The Camino Real parallels ARROYO SAN FERNANDO west from near San Agustin, as does Highway One.
Baja Almanac page 15:
Today's Rancho Progreso cafe is a half mile north of the old Baja road and ECR route, where that rancho used to be. It is then about 3 miles west
along Arroyo San Fernando to Mision San Fernando Velicata.
The next section (to El Rosario) is quite different from the old or new transpeninsular roads!
Another water source on the old trail...
Among the beautiful photographs from Neal Johns, the bottom one at http://davidksbaja.com/neal2/page5.html showing the oasis in ARROYO AGUAGE GUILLERMO may very well be a place named 'Agua Escondida' by Arturo
Grosso to Howard Guilick, in the 1950's.
This 'Agua Escondida' was between San Nicolas and Agua Dulce on the Camino Real. Gulick's 1954 map of the El Camino Real places this spring in the
same arroyo where Neal's photo was taken.
EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 11) San Fernando to Alta California
Baja Almanac page 15:
Mision San Fernando Velicata was the first Franciscan founded mission in California in 1769 (and the only one in Baja). Junipero Serra found the site
to be much more suitable than arid and limited Santa Maria de los Angeles, the final Jesuit mission (in California).
Junipero Serra's route north to San Diego bypassed El Rosario (the next mission, founded 5 years later) and instead went north past San Juan de Dios
and into the lower foothills of the Sierra San Pedro Martir not returning to the coastal plain until the San Telmo/ Colonet region of today.
Harry Crosby's book (GATEWAY TO ALTA CALIFORNIA) is a superior guide to Serra's exact route from El Rosario to San Diego.
The Camino Real to the next mission (Rosario, founded by the Dominicans in 1774) traveled west from San Fernando.
Where the arroyo bends south at the base of the petroglyph cliff, the old trail went into the small canyon just to the right/ north of that cliff and
continued west.
The next point on the Camino Real was a water hole called SANTA URSULA. Howard Gulick drove to Santa Ursula in 1953. The road to it is 2.0 miles west
of (now gone) Rancho Arenoso, on the old main road. Rancho Arenoso was just south of the highway at Km. 106 (west the the bridge named Arenoso I), the
ruins were visible from the pavement for many years, some still are.
Going south to Santa Ursula, 6.9 miles from the old main road, Gulick found an old adobe house, remains of an old dam and an irrigation ditch.
The next water hole was called AGUA AMARGA and is located on ARROYO SAN VICENTE, probably close to the merging with ARROYO LA BURRA. Another water
hole called LAS CUEVITAS was beyond Agua Amarga.
The Camino Real turns north up ARROYO EL SAUCE the turns west at about the 30? line of latitude passing the north side of MESA LA SEPULTURA and
crosses the Punta San Carlos road just south of Highway One.
A place called SAN ANTONIO was on the old trail. Continue west to the older road going from El Rosario to Punta San Carlos, which was reached about 5
miles southwest from El Rosario. The Camino Real and that auto road took the same route on to El Rosario.
From El Rosario north to Alta California both Highway One and El Camino Real were mostly parallel and close together. Exceptions would be were the ECR
went inland via Mision Santo Domingo and San Telmo de Arriba, staying in the foothills between San Quintin to just north of Colonet. Also San Vicente
to Santo Tomas was partly west of Highway One.
That's the end of this article!
Enjoy exploring Baja as much as the pioneers of the past and the adventurers of today!
By David Kier
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TMW
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Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Thanks David.
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jrbaja
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Registered: 2-2-2003
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El Camino Real
David, do you have any knowledge of anyone who has actually traveled the 'El Camino Real" south of BDLA ? Because I just broke both my leafsprings
driving on it somewhere and would like some information from something besides books. Everything the books said was wrong including the Baja Almanac.
Fortunately for me, the locals knew the facts. And they had this to say about the almanac
Might be the best available in the U.S. and I use it regularly but in many cases, it is just plain wrong. Mine is already taped back together..
because of use.
I would really love to hear some info. rather than book quotes. Thanks J.R.
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David K
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Hi JR,
In Part 1, I do credit those who researched the El Camino Real, where much of my information comes from.
Arthur North traved much of it around 1905. Howard Gulick and Peter Gerhard (Lower California Guidebook) traveled many sections by foot and mule and
also noted the places wher older trails crossed auto roads, back in the 1950's. Howard interviewed the ranchers about the location of older trails and
even did an excellent report with maps that was never published, but I have a copy. The modern expert on the old trail is Harry Crosby who traveled
all of it in 1967 to 1974 for his excellent 'Kings Highway in Baja California'. More detailed ECR maps were published in the Journal of San Diego
History, from Harry's research.
However, Harry (and Howard before him) were dealing with the trail from Loreto north to Alta California. Naturally there were mission-era trails that
connected Loreto to the southern Baja missions. A section south of La Paz is photographed in Harry Crosby's 'Antigua California'. Perhaps that is what
you were trying to drive on.
Most of the ECR is not passable to anything more than burros, mules, and people on foot.
As far as the Baja Almanac goes, there are many errors in it, yes! Guess what, those are Mexican Government Topo maps edited into book form by Landon
Crumpton. He did not do the topography or road details, you will need to talk with Mexico City. With their many errors, they still are the best road
and trail maps of Baja since the ones drawn by Howard Gulick 40+ years ago! Howard's maps are in my web site (see: 1962 road maps of Baja).
I envy your back country travels and only wish I could join you in the back country... the golden part of Baja!
[Edited on 2-4-2004 by David K]
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jrbaja
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Back country travel
It definitely is very interesting seeing the areas off the beaten path. As far as accuracy goes, I have maps made here in Mexico that are much more
accurate, (in some areas). From what I have seen, there are no truly accurate maps available no matter who put them together.
This leads me to believe that $$$ are much more important than accuracy to these people. Personally, I wouldn't put a map together without knowing
of what I speak, first hand. But that's just me.
If any of you ever go into the remote regions down here, don't depend on the almanac to give you accurate info. In my opinion, it adds to the
adventure but, it's not what I expect out of professionals.
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Brian Hadcock
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Baja Almanac
I just received the Baja Almanac in the mail and from my view it meets all my needs. It gives information that I have yet to find in any other
publication. And you know, you can't have too much information. Albeit a little flawed it is better than what I have to date. And thanks David for
putting me onto the Almanac.
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jrbaja
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El Camino Real and the Almanac
As said, my almanac is already taped together from much use. It, combined with many other maps give you a pretty good idea of what is out there.
But, rather than not mentioning the fact that it is wrong in many areas, I thought it would be worth bringing up so that these people who pretend to
know of what they speak try a little harder in their professional endeavors.
Seems fair to me but I am also used to the fact that some just prefer to ignore obvious problems and pretend everything is perfect without trying to
fix anything.
Ring any bells ???
Also David, when you get a chance, I have driven many many miles on the El Camino Real here in Baja south. It is not a freeway by any means but it
can sure get you to some interesting places. As long as your leaf springs don't break.
I recommend you try checking it out in person sometime as you seem to be interested in that kind of stuff. I can set you up with some people that
would love to show you around.
[Edited on 2-4-2004 by jrbaja]
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David K
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Thank you JR, as you know with two kids (teens), I can only get away during school holidays. The next two are booked (Prez Day: Nuevo Mazatlan/Matomi
Reunion Camping Party and Spring Break: Backpacking to Mision San Pedro Martir in Baja's high sierra with Jack Swords, bajarunner, and ???)
Otherwise, I would love to get down there more! I have been to Baja Sur only in '66, '73, '74, '76, '85, and '01 ... Not nearly enough!!!!
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TMW
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I suggest that when you come across areas or places that are wrong in the almanac that they be posted and at some point we could give the corrections
to the publisher for the next printing. Those of us in use of GPS devices are in a good position to point out the mistakes. For example Mission Santa
maria shown on page 18 is positioned on the wrong side of the road. It is to the west or left side. The GPS readings from my visit are 29-43-54N x
114-32-47W elev. 1607ft.
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jrbaja
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I also use a GPS
but for different reasons than David or doing alledged professionals work for them. Besides, it would take some of the adventure out of the travel
down here and there are a few on here that I hope find themselves lost because of the discrepencies in their presciosa guidebooks. I do all the time !
And, regarding page 18, you aint seen nuttin yet ! I'm talkin really wrong ! Life and death type mistakes in some places if you aren't prepared.
Happy travels.
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David K
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TW...
When I got my new Almanac, I posted the errors I found off the bat... I guess that was on the Amigos board. I would be happy (on a new thread) to
re-list the errors in the Almanac. Some doozies include showing an auto road between San Francisco de la Sierra and Santa Marta; Paving the old road
instead of showing the correct highway location betwen San Agustin and Catavina; The road to San Juan de Dios is not correct for about 10 miles;
Switching the bay names: San Luis Gonzaga and Ensenada de San Francisquito; Switching arroyo names: El Volcan and Zamora; etc....
JR, I use my GPS to note road junctions and destinations (interesting places), trails I hike, etc.... then to share with any Baja loving (and
respecting) amigo in my travel stories. Also, to play the geocaching treasure hunting/hide and seek game. How are you doing with confluences?
[Edited on 12-23-2004 by David K]
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jrbaja
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Pokin fun
I do that Amigo. Don't have to agree on all issues to be friends. I have the confluences of 111.00W and 25.00 N and also 112 W and 25.00 N which you
can see at www.confluence.org. It is fairly complicated to post them at their site so will do that when I get home.
Herb was with me on the second trip and it was quite an incredible journey as you will hear about from one of us later. I couldn't think of a better
traveling companion !!!
I think I will probably get either one or two more before heading north and there is way less value in what I am doing than finding geo caches.
depending on how you look at it.
I started a new one called Geo Stashes but we won't get into that one now. hahahahahaha
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David K
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To help visualize the Camino Real's route, I have put Howard Gulick's 1954 maps of it, on-line at: http://vivabaja.com/ECR
[Edited on 12-23-2004 by David K]
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Baja Bernie
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Time line
David,
I just downloaded the entire thing to make a quick and clean time line for my next book that I hope to call "Baja Before the Border." I have spent a
couple of hundred dollars on books but your post makes a wonderful and easy cross reference to dates etc. If you have a problem with this please let
me know and I'll deny that I have it. (only kidding)
Hey! If you will show this old guy how I will put a few of the illustrations from my second book on the site. So far the people have only seen the
one for "The Baja Connection" Gotta tell you that this thread shows why you are the Baja Connection.
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David K
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Thanks Bernie!
I put information on the Internet because I want people to use it.. So, yes... you may use my words. Mostly, they are compilations of past explorers
words. But, I (like Choral Pepper) want to keep people excited about Baja history.
The more people who will come to Baja to see its historic treasures, the more the Mexicans will protect and preserve the sites.
A hundred years ago, it was treasure hunters. In recent times it was the locals needing building material or clearing the land of abandoned buildings
or other thoughtless destruction.
Awareness that these piles of rubble have value to tourists, will help preserve them. With GPS aided driving and hiking directions, more sites will be
visited regularly and gain recognition by local government. Then the destruction can stop.
We made quite a stink about some local people tearing down the El Marmol school house (the world's only onyx block built school). Now a fence
surrounds it. Perhaps just apathy of the demolition man, but now he knows that the school means something to others.
Probably not the Cabo bound crowd, but Norteamericano tourists and travelers, including those that read this board, can actually save these exotic
Baja sites by going to them, showing an interest in them, write travel reports on the Internet about how you want to see them preserved... for future
generations, too.
Think about it, if vertually nobody ever visits a historic site, then what is the incentive to protect it from disappearing? If nobody cares, then
nobody will mind if it is torn down.
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David K
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Just popping this one back up after a couple edits... After listening to Baja Talk Radio latest program, I was looking for the article on finding the
old Baja road. The Camino Real is the oldest Baja road, for sure!
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bajalou
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Thanks David for this as well as other posts. I enjoy the history in one place verses studing many bookd, etc as you do to compile it for us, (I'm
lazy that way) Keep up the posting about this wonderful world of Baja California.
(It's 9am on a work day, how come you're on line?)
Merry Christmas to you and all the Nomads, whereever you are.
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area
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David K
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Just being lazy today and dreaming about Baja!

[Edited on 12-23-2004 by David K]
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