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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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The fish are gone
My first motorcycle trip to Baja was in January 1995. A month of exploring was punctuated by a day-trip from Loreto to Agua Verde.
Once down from the winding mountain road, I looked around the first clutch of houses wondering if there was a small tienda of any sort, as I was
hungry. I spotted a few plastic pop crates outside a palapa-thatched casita and figured maybe it was a commercial establishment of some sort...so I
approached it and was greeted by a somewhat shy/cautious woman in her early 30's. My Spanish skills were terrible, but I managed to get her to
understand a comida was what I hoped for. I asked for "pescado con mojo de ajo", but was told "no pescado...solo pollo".
Well that suited me and I sat at an outside table and waited for that all to happen. As Baja was still a hugely new adventure for me, I was quite
happy to sit, look around, and watch the chickens and cats saunter around, watched a few people doing their chores in nearby homes, and enjoyed the
cooking smells wafting out of her simple kitchen.
I was in heaven.
After a while, the woman brought out some fried chicken, beans, and some tomatoes and shredded cabbage...as well as some fresh but greasy harina
tortillas. I was in heaven and being fed....hard to beat that.
As I was eating, the woman's daughter was curious and came over to sit across from me at the worn plank table. She seemed to have a cold as she kept
sniffing. Our conversation was limited due to my limited Spanish skills, but it was determined that she was 13 years old, no longer went to school as
she had completed the first 7 years, and stayed at home now. When asked if she had a "catarh" (my sense of the Spanish word for "a cold" based on my
reading of billboard ads), she shyly smiled and explained that it was the salsa she was eating with her own tortillas that was giving her the
sniffles. We both saw the humour in this part of our conversation and shared a laugh.
This was one of my first-ever prolonged conversations/sit-downs with a local as I was only about 10 days into my trip (and because I was more of an
observer than a participant as a traveller) .....and it warmed my heart a great deal.
During the course of my sitting at the table, the woman's husband came by, gave me a cautious glance, and proceeded to sharpen his rather large knife
on a smooth stone the size of a shoe-box situated just outside the kitchen. He was slow and methodical with his task, punctuating his work with
occasional glances my way. I had acknowledged him with a nod and a "Buenas tardes" (remember the limited language skills? :biggrin
I secretly wondered if he was "on task" with his work, curious about me and used the knife-sharpening as an excuse, or was showing me his big knife as
a territorial statement....???
After I finished my meal and truncated conversation with their daughter, the mother took my plate away. I managed a conversation of sorts with her.
What stands out in my mind about that conversation was her telling me that they were experiencing very hard times. As a fishing community, the
decreasing fish stocks made it very difficult to make ends meet. Her husband had to move away for work for periods of time, sending very little money
back home for the family. Because of that and his feeling depressed about his ability to provide for his family, he had developed an alcohol problem
and was even less reliable.
The Sea of Cortez was no longer fruitful.
The romanticism of the situation deteriorated as I recognized their "simplicity" was poverty and suffering.
The woman's willingness to cook me a meal warmed my heart...
Their daughter's friendliness opened my heart more...
The story about no more fish broke my heart.
Yes, the fish are disappearing.
The ride back to Loreto had a much more somber tone to it that the excitement of the ride in.
Don't believe everything you think....
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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Sometimes I get the feeling that those who haven't been to Baja for twenty years should never plan on returning. Nothing today can compare to the
memories of a more simple time here.
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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It's not just the fish. Over the years I have seen many ranchos that once had families go vacant and it repeats it's self over and over. What is there
today may be gone tomorrow and I wonder where they went and sometimes why.
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capn.sharky
Senior Nomad
Posts: 686
Registered: 9-4-2003
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True, the fishing isn't as good as it once was. This could be due to the currents in the Sea of Cortez. But---you can always find fish you just have
to keep at it longer than before. December is always a slow month as the fishing is switching over to yellowtail. But there is always something to
do in Loreto. Sit on the beaches, visit the islands or visit your Mexican friends. Go into town and spend some money, things are really tough right
now but, the people are friendly and treat the tourists very well. The fish will return soon but it is always fun to be in Loreto.
If there is no fishing in heaven, I am not going
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sancho
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2524
Registered: 10-6-2004
Location: OC So Cal
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| Quote: | Originally posted by motoged
I was in heaven.
The romanticism of the situation deteriorated as I recognized their "simplicity" was poverty and suffering.
The woman's willingness to cook me a meal warmed my heart...
Their daughter's friendliness opened my heart more...
The story about no more fish broke my heart.
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Good stuff, my first yrs. so. Baja were in '83 and the majority spent on the
mainland, are great memories. learning a couple words
of Espanol each day and wearing them out. Travelling
by yourself opens you up to conversational moments
you would not have if you were travelling with another
person, makes you approachable to the casual Mex local.
My first real Baja beach time was at Muertos Bay, 40 mi
southeast of La Paz, those are irreplaceable times
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vgabndo
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3461
Registered: 12-8-2003
Location: Mt. Shasta, CA
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Mood: Checking-off my bucket list.
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Nice Ged.
It reminds me of Rancho San Luis, and Jose and Lydia East of Laguna Juarez. The second time we rode our dirt bikes and brought them vegetable seeds
and ammunition for their .22, and while we hiked out to the view from Salton Sea to the Gulf, they killed a goat in our honor.
Cow dung smoldered in tin cans to hold back the flies a little bit.
It was a beautiful formative moment for me sharing that precious meat with them.
Two weeks of recovery showed me that my system wasn't up to handling their level of sanitation, but the other gift, in retrospect, was worth it. It
was my first look at life on the edge.
This would have been ...1970~
[Edited on 12-18-2011 by vgabndo]
Undoubtedly, there are people who cannot afford to give the anchor of sanity even the slightest tug. Sam Harris
"The situation is far too dire for pessimism."
Bill Kauth
Carl Sagan said, "We are a way for the cosmos to know itself."
PEACE, LOVE AND FISH TACOS
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Eugenio
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 4-23-2008
Location: Navojoa, Son.
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One of the most astute observations I've read on these boards - and entertaining. Thanks motoged.
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bajario
Nomad
Posts: 260
Registered: 1-7-2008
Location: Cardiff
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Great story 'Ged. I was taken south of the border to northern Baja as a kid with my parents. Very little memories remain. It wasn't until the last ten
years did I venture further south, Loreto, Cabo, San Juanico.
If Baja is only half as great as it was twenty years ago, then the spell of the land is still powerful. My daydreams rarely venture to places other
than Baja, well regarding land masses that is. There is always going to be change. Not all of it for the better. The memories I create with my family
and for myself in Baja keep me going through the good times and bad. They inspire me to work my ass off so as I may one day call Baja home
permanently.
Then stories like yours will be real for me at a much more consistent clip and I will always be grateful to be in such a place, where I can help if
needed, put the fast paced life NOB behind me, and enjoy life for what it is. Not what it has become.
I may have 15-20+ years left before dream becomes reality. Well at least until my yougest turns 18 in 12.54 years.
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Mengano
Banned
Posts: 1238
Registered: 9-26-2011
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| Quote: | Originally posted by motoged
When asked if she had a "catarh" (my sense of the Spanish word for "a cold"... |
catarro = common cold
catarrh = sinus inflamation
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Skeet/Loreto
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4709
Registered: 9-2-2003
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Pleae do not get discourged! There are lots of Fish in the Great Sea of Cortez!!
do not listen to the Sierra Club bunch of Nuts.
Just look at the amount of Sardines that are being taken out up near Mulege. It has been going on for the last 40 years that I personally know about
and have seen with my own Eyes.
I have also seen the Thousands of Tons of Squid taken out.
What you must understand is that Fish move in and out of the Sea of Cortez. And you must also understand that there is not near as many Fisherman
especially around the loreto aera reporting the Number of Fish being Caught.
Fish move in and out of the Sea of Cortez depending sometimes on the very large Sardine s, sometimes on the Shrimp movement, sometimes on the Squid
etc.
Just look at the Great Fishing on the pacific side this past year and then at the Great Fishing in the Mulege the last couple of years
I have fished the Sea of Cortez for 40 years, lived at Loreto for 18 years. The Fish will always come back!!!!
Skeet/Loreto,
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
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Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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skeet
hola, I respectfuly disagree,, the state of the sea and the ocean's are going down fast,,I have trolled a lure from cabo to the sorcorro's thru the
hawai island.s up to steward alaska,,have captain vessel's from alaska to costa rica,,my point being,,, I have got to talk to alot of folk's.....
VHF,,,,S.S....,at the dock,,bar,,,and any place,, I have been the local's tell the same storey,,fishing is not,,,repeat not at all what was just a few
year's ago,,I have the watched the boy's at la playita on the east cape score's since 77 and the size and number of fish is not down,,its fricking
gone !! my folk's live on the shore north of the Gordo bank's and dont even listen to the panga channel anymore,,my dad say's it's to damn depressing
for him any more//but this my opinon// yes a couple fish here and thier,,, but for me,I have seen a major decline in fish and I wished very much to
see it get better and have a couple suggestion's on how we can all go about it..but I relize it's going to take a lot more than me
b-tchin........K&T
[Edited on 12-18-2011 by captkw]
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
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Mood: undecided
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There're more fishermen than fish, too many nets, too many hooks. All anyone has to do is dive on some of the reefs, they're devoid of life.
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bajafam
Senior Nomad
Posts: 654
Registered: 9-6-2009
Location: Northeast AZ, Bahia Asuncion, BCS :)
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Mood: DLTBGYD
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leave it to Skeet to bury his head in the sand about the state of the Sea. Ged's account shows the effect that it is having on the local fishermen,
who rely upon it's abundance for their livelihood. Obviously, that abundance is suffering. Please stop with the inane rants about the fish....you
reduce the people that are suffering to meaningless stories of lost souls.
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
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Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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sorry,neptune made me do it "bump"
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vgabndo
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3461
Registered: 12-8-2003
Location: Mt. Shasta, CA
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Mood: Checking-off my bucket list.
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It seems that as the writing on the wall becomes more clear in every language, the delusional become more fixated on miraculous salvation. Homo
sapiens is in measurably deep trouble and its likely there's going to be a pretty big die-off in that species fairly soon too.
Good for the fish, and the humans too for that matter. Perhaps if the more rational of our species survive to breed and thrive on a planet with fewer
demands on its resources, their slightly more evolved frontal lobes will help them decide to make the environment a bit more of a priority next time
around. This, in my opinion, would be a good thing.
At one point I thought that HIV would be natures way of trimming the numbers, but we were too smart for it! Now I think it will probably be starvation
pushed around by sectarian warfare. I hope I'm not around when our 8 billion piles of feces hit that earthshaking fan. Too bad it can't be all
Norman Rockwell into the 24th. century or so.
Undoubtedly, there are people who cannot afford to give the anchor of sanity even the slightest tug. Sam Harris
"The situation is far too dire for pessimism."
Bill Kauth
Carl Sagan said, "We are a way for the cosmos to know itself."
PEACE, LOVE AND FISH TACOS
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Marc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2802
Registered: 5-15-2010
Location: San Francisco & Palm Springs
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Mood: Waiting
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Thanks. I know. I was there before you. Going back to say hello after 21years this coming February....if they are there.
[Edited on 12-18-2011 by Marc]
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Roberto
Banned
Posts: 2162
Registered: 9-5-2003
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What is REALLY sad is that often those same people who depend on the sea are partially responsible for its demise.
I am referring to the routine practice of gillnetting inshore areas, destroying fish stocks of many of the fish that are not pelagic.
Ignorance, lack of alternatives, call it what you will. It happens all over the world.
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captkw
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3850
Registered: 10-19-2010
Location: el charro b.c.s.
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Mood: new dog/missing the old 1
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vag
vagabundo,,let's
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paranewbi
Senior Nomad
Posts: 913
Registered: 4-15-2011
Location: San diego
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After traveling 40+ years in Mexico and Central America....
Something will always be gone the next time you go back.
Nothing ever remains the same.
What you remember is dictated by your mood at the time.
You will always say...I'm sure glad I/we got to see it when...
And you will always say that after the next time
and this time.
Love hurts sometimes.
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mcfez
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8678
Registered: 12-2-2009
Location: aka BN yankeeirishman
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Let's make Frankenstein snakes too......
3 Delicious Animals We Charbroiled Into Extinction....... and 1 That Tasted Nasty But We Killed It Anyway
The Dodo
The Sea Cow
The Great Auk
The nasty Passenger Pigeon
Mankind has the honor of quite possibly being the most destructive force to ever hit mother nature. Whether by over hunting or over population,
driving a species to extinction is nothing to be proud of and it’s certainly not slowing down.
Thylacine
Quagga
Passenger Pigeon
Golden Toad
Caribbean Monk Seal
Pyrenean Ibex
Bubal Hartebeest
Javan Tiger
Tecopa Pupfish
Baiji River Dolphi
Skeet/Loreto snakes that he relocated to a entirely new location.
I have fished Mexico, Belize, USA (ocean), and a dozen other countries. Four of these countries has reduced fisheries that is really alarming. Any
doubt about the over fished oceans, is to read about the North Atlantic Cod. Hell...look at the California coast for fishing.....just about a joke.
Thank the Gods that the "Rip Van Winkle" Skeet/Loreto is not in charge of saving the whales.
Sign: One of those Sierra Club bunch of Nuts.
[Edited on 12-18-2011 by mcfez]
Old people are like the old cars, made of some tough stuff. May show a little rust, but good as gold on the inside.
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