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JESSE
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3370
Registered: 11-5-2002
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During my regular surfing sessions theres always one wave that seems to come in from out of nowhere, at least 3 to 4 feet bigger than the regular set
waves, i guess this is what you call a "rogue" wave.
They come in all the time almost everyday when the swell is big, its only dangerous if you happen to be standing on the shore on a place that prevents
you from holding on to something, if theres rocks around you run the risk of knocking yourself out and drowning.
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Stephanie Jackter
Senior Nomad
Posts: 566
Registered: 11-3-2002
Location: Arizona
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You've all got me afraid to get in the bath tub!
One reason I've always liked La Paz is that the highest swell you get, even at Tecolote, is about a foot and a half. I grew up in a landlocked area
back east and was quite intimidated when I first started going in the ocean around the age of 17. I had friends who grew up in Manhattan Beach that I
would watch diving under the waves and making it look sooo easy.
I watched and learned and figured I had it down by around the age of 20, when I was travelling on the mainland with my ex. We saw some kids while
walking the beach just north of Barra de Navidad, little kids jumping in and out of some big-assed waves. They had to be ten feet high, at least.
The children were laughing and playing and my ex and I walked down the steep slope to the water, thinking that if a bunch of little kids could go in
and out of the water so easily, it would be no sweat for us too.
Big mistake. I almost died that day. He made it under the curl, which was really lucky, as I was the better swimmer. But I got slammed by the first
wave onto the bottom, raised up and slammed another two or three times. It slammed the breath right out of me, but luckily, there was enough of a
break at some point for me to scurry out with my life, bruised and panting. I couldn't have been happier to see that my ex made it out too, as there
was little way to save myself, much less go back and try to get him. We sat there huffing and feeling grateful to have survived as we looked down the
steep beach and watched the little children, still playing at the water's edge and diving under the curls - and laughing like they'd just seen the
clown act at the circus!
My children are growing up with a lot of time spent at the ocean, albiet on the calmer Sea of Cortez side. I still don't know how prepared they are
for dealing with waves as I still don't really have my technique down and wouldn't know what kinds of things to show them. Maybe one of you surfer
dudes can give them some tips. The two youngest talk a lot about wanting to learn how to surf, but are at a bit of a loss with me as a mother.
The one thing I thought I'd learned from that experience at Barra de Navidad was to watch for how steep it is down from the tideline and not go in if
it's too big an incline. But then I went to Todos Santos a couple of years ago and felt some of the strongest tidal pulls I've ever felt and some
waves that would smack you against the bottom really easlily cause the whole entry was flat as a pancake. Guess that assumption got put to bed.
So, to all of you who grew up poppin' in and out of the California curls - what are the rules of the road for dealing with tides? How do you deal with
getting in and getting past them? And where do you draw the limit on going in at all?-Stephanie
When the goin' gets tough, the wierd turn pro
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4342
Registered: 11-19-2002
Location: Yes
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The ocean can be deadly. You must show her great respect. In 38 years of surfing I have had two instances that caused my 'life to pass before my
eyes'. It teaches you to always use caution.
When you are at a new beach and considering jumping in for a dip it is advisable to sit awhile (20-30 minutes) and watch the patterns and rythym of
the surf. It can help to observe others in the water and mimic the techniques that they are using, exactly, but most important you must analyze your
own abilities. You must be able to recognize conditions like riptides (look like rivers of water moving away from and perpendicular to the shore)
undertows (typical in areas like Todos Santos, Lovers Beach i.e. steeply sloped beaches) and areas where just a few feet from shore the water depth is
over your head (see above beaches) You must be confident in your swimming abilities most of all. Especially in Baja where lifeguards and emergency
help are far and few between. My advice would be to stick to the Sea of Cortez or beaches where there is a long,sandy,gradually sloping bottom and
lots of people around. We love the ocean and we swim, surf, kayak and enjoy it whenever we can, but we always know what our personal limits are.
Be safe and have fun!!
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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Ski Baja
Senior Nomad
Posts: 652
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: Rosarito Beach
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The ocean
Todos Santos is one of the most dangerous areas of coastline there is. Do not get near the water there if you are not experienced and comfortable
being around it.
If you want your kids to learn to surf. Make sure they are comfortable in the water. Start with a pool. But on the bottom of it. You want them to
feel comfortable underwater holding their breath. Mask, snorkel and pennies, nickles, and dimes work well to get their
attention and introduce them to holding their breath.
Next, find a beach that is flat with very little slope. You may want to start them on boogie boards to get them used to actually riding a wave.
Start with white water and they will gradually work their way into the waves.
Then, when they are comfortable with this, it's time to teach them about getting in rip tides and currents. I purposely took my daughter into rip
tides and strong currents (after I knew she was comfortable in the ocean) to show her what it feels like and how to deal with them. I strongly
recommend this for kids before they end up in one and panic.
Once they have learned to be comfortable in the water, the only thing a parent has to worry about is sharks!
Guess what everyone, I bet Stephanies kids turn into skiers rather than surfers! 
Just kidding Stephanie. Those are the rules I have followed teaching many kids back when I could still bend. The key is feeling comfortable
underwater and the diving for coins really works well no matter how stubborn they may be. All of a sudden when that rogue wave shows up, they've been
underwater before so no big deal.
I just reread about where they are spending a lot of time, Sea of Cortez. Coins will work there too. Or, whoever brings back the most Chocolates!
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Stephanie Jackter
Senior Nomad
Posts: 566
Registered: 11-3-2002
Location: Arizona
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Yeah, they're fantastic snorkelers already and are constantly having contests to see who can stay under the longest. The oldest got certified for
Scuba this summer. They're like fish, but I still worry about how to teach them about tides, as I don't particularly want them to be as limited as
I've been when dealing with them. -Stephanie
When the goin' gets tough, the wierd turn pro
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Ski Baja
Senior Nomad
Posts: 652
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: Rosarito Beach
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The ocean
Stephanie, the ocean surfing and scuba diving are two entirely different things. And I have seen many scuba guys go out in front of my house ( usually
borrowing my stuff) and completely panick in the waves and currents. And guess where my stuff ends up! Sometimes I can even find it.
In my opinion, waves and scuba do not mix unless you are first familiar with the rip tides and currents.
Since they are already developing gills, get them some boogie boards and fins and let them play in the waves. Don't forget the flat beach part for
starters. This rules out most of southern Baja.
Then, when they are rad riders, let em loose with themselves. They will do fine.
Again, the key is feeling comfortable. I do not recommend tanks, weights and scuba stuff where there are waves and currents.
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Stephanie Jackter
Senior Nomad
Posts: 566
Registered: 11-3-2002
Location: Arizona
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You missed my point
I wasn't suggesting they go scuba in the waves. Only that they're good swimmers with excellent lung capacity and control. - Stephanie
When the goin' gets tough, the wierd turn pro
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Ski Baja
Senior Nomad
Posts: 652
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: Rosarito Beach
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Water safety
Just trying to stress my feelings on scuba and waves Steph. because of the number of times I have seen problems. From experienced divers too!
ElGato's piece on water safety is a very informative post that will explain what is going on in the water. I highly recommend studying what it says
and then experimenting gradually when you go to the beach. Hopefully, it will be in warmer waters than your neighborhood because cold water can play a
part in safety as well.
Happy surfing Dudette. (surfer terminology) and kowabunga! ( my age showing)
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