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Ken Bondy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3326
Registered: 12-13-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: Mellow
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My story isn't nearly as interesting as ELINVEST18's fantastic account, but here's how I described my first Baja experiences:
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I think I was a Mexican in another life. I have a powerful attraction for Mexico and all things Latin. The attraction is particularly strong for that
part of Mexico known as Baja California. Perhaps it was just proximity; I grew up in the Los Angeles area, less than 200 miles from the Mexican
border. I can’t remember exactly how I got interested in Baja (the other life, maybe?) but I started going to Tijuana shortly after high school (late
50s). I am uncomfortable admitting this, but one of the initial attractions I had to Latin culture was bullfighting. I was a huge Hemingway fan and
“Death in the Afternoon” was a strong influence. The Latin pageantry, the whole spectacle of the Tijuana “Bullring by the Sea” grabbed me—but
eventually the brutality and cruelty of the “corrida” outweighed the fun parts of the afternoon and I lost interest. I do remember loving the
cultural shock of crossing the border, the mostly friendly chaos of the Tijuana streets, the drive out Calle Segunda to Playas de Tijuana, the colors,
the smells of the mesquite fires. It was amazing that everything could be that different by just passing a few feet over some imaginary line. It was
an attraction for me that would last a lifetime.
I made my first trip to the southern part of the peninsula in the late 1960s. It was a fishing trip to the classic “east cape” resort Rancho Buena
Vista. On that trip we flew commercially to La Paz, and then took an air taxi flight in a high-wing single (I think it was a Cessna 206 or 207) from
La Paz airport to the dirt strip at Buena Vista. The experience was literally life-changing for me—flying in a small airplane, landing on a dirt
strip, the first taste of the Sea of Cortez where the desert just became ocean—the whole “Baja experience” back when it was still young, simple, and
pristine. Back then Cabo San Lucas was a dusty little village. When I got back I started collecting and reading everything I could find on Baja
California. I went crazy over Ray Cannon’s classic book “The Sea of Cortez.” Baja would become a major part of my life and experience for the next
40 years; it remains so today.
I learned to fly in the early 1970s and earned my private pilot’s license in 1973. Within a year I had my instrument and multiengine ratings. Baja
influenced my decision to take flying lessons. I knew flying would open up my access to the peninsula, making everything easier to get to and in much
less time. In 20 years of flying I eventually logged over 1,700 hours, flying a wide variety of single-engine airplanes (Cessna 150, 152, 172, 177,
182, 210, Beechcraft Bonanzas F33, V35 and A36) and several multiengine airplanes (Beechcraft Travelair and Duchess, Piper Aztec.) In 1979 I bought a
beautiful 1963 Beechcraft Baron, and in the next ten years logged over 1,000 hours in it, more than half of my total time. The Baron was like a
family member.
My four kids kind of grew up in Baja. They loved Baja and the Mexicans loved them. The kids all thought they were Mexican…eventually that had to be
explained. There were several places we particularly enjoyed and visited often—Hotel Punta Pescadero on the “east cape” near the southern end of the
peninsula, Meling Ranch in the mountains north of San Quintin, and the cities of Loreto and La Paz.
carpe diem!
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DanO
Super Nomad
Posts: 1923
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: Not far from the Pacific
Member Is Offline
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1969, in my dad's cab-over camper, in a caravan with a buddy of his and the buddy's snooty Parisian wife. We spent the first night at La Bufadora.
Dinner was rolled tacos cooked on a wood burning stove by a local woman. The oasis of San Ignacio was surrounded by what looked like thousands of
empty beer cans winking in the sun. We spent the better part of a week camping on the beach at Bahia Coyote, getting our provisions from the locals
and the ocean. My dad traded a bottle of tequila to some fishermen for a couple of kilos of shrimp and half a dozen fish. We bought creamy avocados
the size of melons from a burro-drawn vegetable cart. We made road trips to go clamming, scraping the butter clams off the bottom with our feet, and
using pismo clams as squirt guns in water fights. My dad made fish head soup and put the biggest fish eye he could find into his buddy's wife's soup
bowl, for laughs. She was not amused and dumped the soup on her husband, which only made everyone laugh harder. That trip, and another one a couple
of years later in a moho down to La Paz and across on the ferry to Mazatlan, gave me the fever.
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65297
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Summer of 1965... I was 7 1/2 and my parents just got a Jeep Wagoneer after hearing that a Jeep was the only way to drive to Gonzaga Bay... where the
best fishing was!
The paved road ended in San Felipe, a block from the beach and all the streets were otherwise dirt... We bought some bakery items and headed south. At
Puertecitos, 50 miles from San Felipe, a gringo said that was the end of the road... but not for us! Into four wheel drive for the 20 miles of steep
up and down grades and 30 more miles of various terrain that would take most of the day.
We camped on the beach a bit south of the few 'homes' that were Alfonsina's... I remember getting a bad sunburn on the back of my legs... and mom
using vinegar to treat the pain.
I think photos from that trip are all on slides (Bell & Howell days)...?
That was the start of my family's love affair with Baja! Every chance, every school vacation, we headed south... Agua de Chale (Nuevo Mazatlan) became
our favorite destination... the corbina fishing from the lagoon/ bay just north (today's Bahia Santa Maria) was outstanding.
The summer of 1966 was our BIG adventure... Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas... 800 dirt road miles. We returned via the new ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan
and up the mainland's paved roads.
Here are a few photos from the '66 trip:
8 1/2 year old me and 500 year old (?) cardon:
Panga fishing off Cabo
My first dorado
La Paz Ferry Terminal with dad
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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
Member Is Offline
Mood: up on step
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my first time down was a foray into tijuana in 1965 as a sailor..lured there as a young farmboy doing his 8 weeks at boot camp in san diego...as soon
as i graduated, i headed south before being shipped out....then...in 1972, having completed my "obligation", i hitchhiked down from washington state
with a buddy who had "avoided" the draft and was on the run....we were mostly penniless but happy...my friend had long hair and the nixon "long hair
watch" was on...we bought a cheap wig and tucked his hair up underneath it, to no avail...the border had snitches on watch all the time and they
spotted steve and busted him...so...they turned us around, saying we couldnt go into mexico...we went back to a five and dime right there by the
border, bought a pair of scissors and i cut his hair off in their restroom....we marched proudly across the border!... the first guy to pick us up was
mexican and the first thing he did was produce a wooden matchbox with a couple of joints in it...well.....we smoked one and were completely out of
it!....he dumped us off about halfway to ensenada in the middle of nowhere...i got out of the car, watched him drive off and then realized i had left
my only pair of shoes on the floor of his backseat...now i'm barefoot with only a bedroll to keep me company...the next car to pick us up was three
mexicans and a bottle of tequila....we sat in the back and the bottle was passed around...over and over...over and over....by the time we got to
ensenada my buddy was just out of it....they dumped us downtown with a bueno suerte and an adios....i took him down to the beach and put him to bed
for the night....the next day we pointed our noses south and eventually ended up in punta banda...which....was completely deserted in those days....we
headed out on the spit and took up residence...in time, we built a really nice driftwood shelter, got to know the locals, and fell in love with the
place...stayed almost the year on the beach and just got baja'd big time...love it1
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
Member Is Offline
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Long long ago in a galaxy far far away....
1959 or thereabouts. My folks went regularly when we were little. Here's from previous post.:
I was prompted to recall a few more mental snapshots in time. I really recall the different smells. As a child the smell of life and more was
omnipresent. They say that smells program your brain permanently and can't be forgotten. In other words, once you smell something you'll always
remember that smell shall it come by your way, even in 50 yrs.
So now when I happened along the Toll Road last year the bad smell triggered that "been there-done that" response in my mind. Yes it did smell bad
that day. I've no idea how many days a year Rosarito Beach area reeks, but that familiar smell etched into my brain decades ago briefly reared it's
ugly head
Listen up Mr. Trump!
On the other hand I had an epiphany 3 or so yrs ago. I was driving along Hwy 1 and the sweet smell of mesquite smoke wafted thru my vehicle. I
suddenly remembered that smell from the same area from 35 yrs earier.
I was really into jewelry and fireworks in my late teens. TJ was a wonderful place to shop. Most store owners would bargain with Americans and many
touted about their skill in getting a great deal thru their method. It's true and stll is today. You CAN get a deal through bargaining many times. I
doubt the new Home Depots and others will subscribe to that .
Back when California was less flammable, we filled our shopping list in TJ. I was in heaven when the the store owner showed me his fireworks for sale
in the back. I went back north with cherrybombs and crackerballs. We eventually located other merchants who could help us out with other firecrackers.
I loved em even though they had a fair share of duds. They were all loud though and contained a goodly amount of flashpowder. They kicked arse when
they worked. Some mean M4000 or whatever with plastered ends. Giant oversized firecrackers baring dual fuses. Trianglular firecracers you could fling
like a frisbeee and those wonderful; little lady fingers who your friends dared you tolight and explode on the tip of your fingers.
What about the velvet art paintings that came about in the 60s. I remember as a boy looking into stores and seeing vibrant paintings of large breasted
women. I really enjoyed the lack of censorship.
When my parents eventually figured I was old enough let me go shop on my own. My bounty always included a few things I would bring back. A few packs
of "Horechit Cigarettes" remember...."Not a fart in a car load" , a couple fancy switchblades, a bullwhip or two and some fireworks.
Ah, the good ol' days. I have to admit tho, the Chinese fireworks are much more reliable.
DON\'T SQUINT! Give yer eyes a break!
Try holding down [control] key and toggle the [+ and -] keys
Viva Mulege!
Nomads\' Sunsets
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Iflyfish
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3747
Registered: 10-17-2006
Member Is Offline
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ELINVESTI8
Yours takes the pan comida amigo!
Mine is with my twin brother, 1962, 17 years old, just finished high school, mother waving good bye, tears pouring down her cheeks as her sons head
down to Mexico an a 250 Ducati Diana Road Racing motor cycle. Single sleeping bag between us, held to my back with a spare tire tube.
Tule fog in the San Joaquin Valley, droplet’s flying off brother's helmet hitting me in the face. Finally too much fog, no let up and visibility
getting worse. Stop at an old shut down motel, they open a room for us, took pity on the kids, slept a fitful night on blood stained sheets and no
heat.
Tijuana for New Years Eve, Blue Fox, won a dance contest with a naked go-go girl, six pack of Tecate, double take on a grizzled old man get his stage
side, jaw dropped, left when the beer bottles started sailing and smashing on pillars inches from my head.
Down the road to Ensenada and a night on the beach by Estero Beach, slept by a breakwater and awoke with a wave pouring over us. Brother drives to
Laundromat in his long johns to dry our clothes and sleeping bag. College kid revelers awake from their nights tequila binge, fire lit up with bursts
of tequila, saw one wake up, sit up and puke. Enough of tequila for a while.
Decide to head north to San Felipe and blast thru a check point at sixty five plus and turn to see the guard come out and wave his Thompson sub
machine gun in the air at us. Who knew about check points?? Was he a bandito? Just tuck into the paint and turn the throttle as far as possible. Now
know just a guy doing his job checking papers.
This was the start of a lifelong love of Mexico, start of a forty five year affair that had us returning over and over for weeks at a time to see most
of the Republic. Brother now lives there and we return again this winter for a few months. The beat goes on e avia bien.
Iflyfish
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805gregg
Super Nomad
Posts: 1344
Registered: 5-21-2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Member Is Offline
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My father drove us from LA to TJ all the way on PCS, no freeway then. We got to drive through all the little beach towns on the way. It was 1957, we
had a 1957 Ford station wagon, I was nine.
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24baja
Senior Nomad
Posts: 952
Registered: 2-3-2009
Location: Grants Pass Oregon/Bahia de Los Angeles
Member Is Offline
Mood: Wishing we were in BOLA
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All of you have been so blessed in your life to be going to Baja for so long, we have just been going for 4 years.
I had been down in 1989 with some girlgriends and loved it but my husband didn't want to go. I told him that if he went he would fall in love with
Baja as I had done but he would have none of it! So when our 25th anniversary came along we made a list of things that we wanted to do and on the
list was Marlin fishing, we booked a trip to Punta Colorada and there began a most wonderful romance, a romance between us and Baja and with each
other, it is magical! He was hooked, we now have a place in BOLA and go down 3-4 times per year (as work permits). Someday we can retire and enjoy
Baja more frequently.
Thanks for all of your wonderful stories.
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BajaNuts
Super Nomad
Posts: 1085
Registered: 5-11-2008
Location: eastern WA, the DRY side
Member Is Offline
Mood: no worry, no hurry....it's all good!
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mid-1970's, one day trip with my parents and brother (age 12-ish) and me (age 10-ish). Through Tijuana and to Ensenada. We hit the tourist souvenier
shops, mom bought a vest with fringes and a leather cape with fringes. I still have the vest to use for costume parties....
The most vivid memory I have of the trip is the kids my age begging. Following us, chasing us to our car. My dad was trying to get us in the car and
this boy my age kept saying..."money for a taco? money for a taco?"...even after we were in the car the boy was trying to open my door.
"money for a taco? money for a taco?"
I knew it might have been a "professional beggar" but it still made a lasting impression. To this day I can hear him..."money for a taco? money for a
taco?"
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susanna
Junior Nomad
Posts: 76
Registered: 2-17-2008
Member Is Offline
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1955 was my first time in TJ, I was 13 yrs old and went with my parents and sister and my little niece to visit my uncle who lived in TJ and also had
a little leather shop down on main st.We had our picture taken with a zebra striped donkey and big sombreros.In fact i still have the picture but
really appreciate
my grandfather who after working here in the US decided to bring his family
and settled here in the 1920's where my mother married and we were all born.
We went back in 1990 to visit Sta Rosalia her birth place when she was 75 yrs old. We took pictures of mom in front of a Bollilo Bakery and a big
steam engine.Some men sold us a big fish i think they said it was a grooper.We ate tacos at a shack accross the street.Just some of the stuff i
remember of our trip to baja.
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