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Skipjack Joe
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I've always loved the Monterey wharf more than any other in California. And that was before they built the aquarium. It was always fun to walk down
the pier and see all those different kinds of fish on nice. You could eat calamari there before all of California knew they were edible. The Italians
knew, though.
My only regret is that we didn't know it during the Ed Ricketts years when it was still a working pier.
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Pompano
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Those were certainly the days. I can relate to the sights and sounds of a working commercial fishing industry..long before any tourism appeared on
the scene.
Port Clyde, Maine..lobster fishery
Bristol Bay, Dutch Harbor & the Aluetians, Alaska
I almost forgot the giant pike tails and huge walleyes sticking up from the wooden barrels outside the grocery store in my home town. They were
frozen stiff, of course..it was 40 below zero.
As kids we would grab a 3-4 foot frozen pike and pretend we were Knights of the Round Table and joust each other on the sidewalks.
We should have had a time machine by now. 
[Edited on 8-4-2010 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Jeep rides, deer camp, BarBQ, olive oil, garlic, and lettuce
PART 7
After the great tour of the docks and waterfront at Monterey, we were headed north up the coast again..when I got a phone call from an old amigo.
Things happen this way a lot.
Nothing would have it, exept that we should do a 180 and head back south for a get-together, although this time inland to the other side of the
Monterey Mountains. We would be in the foothills overlooking the Salinas Valley..Salad Bowl of America.
Mi compadre meets us in the driveway..after a challenging climb in the motorhome up the winding and steep road from the main highway some miles back.
The Ford 460 has more power than I gave it credit for, it seems.
A nicely landscaped scene high atop a bluff overlooking the valley below...pastures heading down to the farmlands of the Salinas Valley. Very fertile
land and highly productive, which my friend will soon show us.
Co-pilot quickly makes friends with all the pets and animals on the property
Well...almost all.
This rancho features it's own private cantina. I think I smell a Pacifico, amigo? Salute!
I think most nomads know I am a hunter by now..and most of my amigos have the same love of hunting and an over-abiding appreciation of nature. My
amigo has about 3000 acres of wild land in these mountains where he pursues conservation issues concerning quail, blacktail deer, turkey, pheasant,
and several other animal species. The area has become very prolific under his tutelage. On any given day you can take a Jeep ride and see all of
the species I mentioned..and more.
THE JEEP RIDE INTO THE MOUNTAINS
Our ride awaits.
A night or two later, we saddle up and head off to my buddy's deer camp high up on his property. One of three such outposts. We meet his brother,
another old Baja amigo of mine for a good old-fashioned steak barbeque.
And yes, that dog is certifiably insane..but cute.
See the blacktail doe in this photo? Lots of game in these hills..deer, hogs, lion, bobcat, quail, dove, pheasant, and even some rare snipe. Who's
been on a snipe hunt?
The sun sets prettily over the Monterey Mountains.
Campfires are a must...in Baja and here in the ranch's deer camp.
We head the Jeep home at dark-thirty. We went pretty much vertical on the way home..carved some new trails on his land, I believe. What a pleasure
to 4-wheel with an expert.
THE WORK IN THE SALAD BOWL
After a 'free' quick car wash by some local church members (we donated $15) our host shows us around his farming operations in the valley. This field
below is some of his celery crop.
WAREHOUSEING AND SHIPPING THE PRODUCT
A packaging and shipping warehouse. Here he ships onions & garlic, plus his own olive oil from his orchards. Then there's the winery with some
fine red..but that's for a different day.
A thriving product..elephant garlic.
Those big garlic bulbs are great on the grill...trimmed whole bulbs..slathered with extra virgin olive oil. Yummm....
It was a very great re-union with Baja-lovers all round. See you on the turnabout, amigo. Hasta pronto.
Now we're off to see the Elephant and to hear the Fat Lady Sing....
TO BE CONTINUED
[Edited on 8-8-2010 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Cypress
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And the journey continues!!!! Thanks Pompano and Co-pilot.
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mike odell
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I'm Reallly enjoying this trip log and wonderful photos.
Thanks and safe travels, Pompano, Co-Pilot
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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Soon they'll be calling you baja's Charles Kuralt.
Mark my words.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
Soon they'll be calling you baja's Charles Kuralt.
Mark my words. |
Ha!...Could be, Igor....or maybe Wrong-Way Corrigan? 
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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"PROBABLE CAUSE" on seals and salmon
Part 8
"PROBABLE CAUSE"
Seacliff, the Ocean, and a Marina campsite.
After a fond farewell breakfast at our amigo's hilltop casa, we roll on down the trail...retracing our old path back up Hwy 101 thru Greenfield,
Soledad (we note the big prison), & Salinas..before turning off 101 and running north on Coast Highway 1.
We're not exactly speeders ...(Hey! Over there!.. look at that..and those..and these!)...and only make it about 100 miles before looking for
a place to camp. We didn't see much we liked for RV parks so we elect to stay at a scenic marina with a boat ramp parking lot. It was really very
nice looking, tons of room ...and it had a harborside view...with some wildlife.
We choose a spot only 50 yards from a great seafood cafe on the waterfront, plus we were in sight of a couple hundred playful seals swimming in the
harbor and sunning on the banks. Aha..this was a plus! Co-pilot was enthralled with the sight of so many beautiful animals..and of
course.. desparately wanted to touch them all.
"Che bello..che bello! How beautiful! They are SO cute. I must go to them."
She went to the dock's edge to take many photos and laugh at the seals..young and old..who now suddenly raised thier volume and barked merrily at her.
BARK!!..bark!..Urk-Urk!..urp..yowl..ARF!!..arf...Fart-fart! ... A lively mix of seal sounds.
Co-pilot was in seventh heaven..or even eighth.
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In the late afternoon, a boat was retrieved at the ramp, and a couple fishermen parked it next to us while getting thier gear cleaned and stowed. Of
course I had to strike up a conversation and ask how thier luck had gone.
The grinning angler then hoisted up his prize catch of the day...a nice fresh chunky king salmon. Now that makes a happy
camper, indeed!
One oddity..he told me it hit at a depth of 300 ft. Not unheard of, but rare to fish that deep for kings.
Co-pilot remarks, "Tesoro, why do you not catch these salmon fish? Only the small pinto you catch, no?"
A low blow. I wince back..
"Well hey now, just a minute here, tesoro....you see, amore mio......It's a sportsman's thing! YES..that's it. I
cannot translate to you all the principles and fine points that govern my fishing prowness..so don't trouble yourself wondering about it. Pintos are
the very best to eat....and the very hardest to catch. Believe me."
To take her mind off such trivia, I go on,
"What could be better than this camp choice? We have a great view and some salmon to look at....plus all those happy seals...SEE?
You must go take some more photos. Hurry."
Off she goes..devote animal lover that she is.
Bark!..bark. Urf!..urf. Arf!..arf. Fart!..fart. Belch!..belch.
"Ahhh..Che bello..che bello.."
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During our candlelight dinner later that evening, we enjoyed the sunset..and the cacaphony of seal sounds from the window of our motorhome parked at
water's edge.
bark-bark...arf arf..bark-bark. Ha..it's like a circus event!
Seems like a nice night, indeed. We wash the dishes, pour another glass of good red, and relate the day's travels & thoughts for about an
hour..while listening to the seal sounds.
"...my, those youngster seal really do yak a lot, don't they?
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Well, it's getting late... time for bed. Night-night, all you seals."
Back comes thier reply, Bark! Barf! Arf! FART! Wheeze! Fart!
"Buonanotte, tesoro."
"Buonanotte, tesoro."
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ZZzzzzz..Zzzzz..zz...
bark BARK!
zz....zzpt...wha?....
...Hmm...still quite vocal, aren't they...those seals.
Hey..it's pretty late now!...wonder if they ever sleep?
...zzzzzz.....Wha? BARK-BARK-BARK-BARK....Argghh...
!!!BARK!-BARK!-BARK!-BARK!-BARK!!!
"Okay-Okay! That's enough already, dammit..it's 1AM for GOD'S SAKE!
..SHUT THE HELL UP, YOU STINKING SEALS!! I HAVE A GUN IN HERE!!!
Co-pilot growls,
..... "I help you reload, tesoro. Kill them all. Then I sleep."
(Now you KNOW I am just kidding, right?) 
Awaking red-eyed and weary from clubbing seals to silence, we break camp before the authorties find Probable Cause to enter our motorhome.. We
quickly find Coast Highway..#1.
If this trip does indeed have any objective, other than R&R, it is probably to run as close to nature as we can. Thus, for our
drive up the Pacific states we will endeavor to hug the ocean as close as we can without getting wet.
Past Santa Cruz and a few tiny coastal villages, we come upon Pelican Point Lighthouse. A nice place to stop for a snack and a looksee.
Then, a little further along the coast, we stop at Pillar Point.
(Per my out-the-window count...there are 11,573 'points' between San Diego and Seattle)
Co-pilot looks at the motorhome wall clock and says, "Capitano mio, it is that time, no?" Breathing a sigh of anticipation I reply,
"Ah...great. Beer-thirty, then?"
"No, not when driving, tesoro..the time is now to find nice place for park and get all ready, then you may have beer."
I glance out the window while thinking..'Hell, this'll be easy.. lucky me...there are campgrounds every 500 yards on Hwy 101 and 1. I'll be
nursing a cold brew right quick.'
Making a judgement decision, I jammed on the brakes and make a hard left into the first driveway I spotted..
...and yup, it was a RV Park!
NOTE:
I can now pay, park, plug-in, and get philosophical in 5 minutes or less. Practice, practice, practice.
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TO BE CONTINUED....or until after our court appearance on the seal genocide charges..
[Edited on 8-8-2010 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4332
Registered: 11-19-2002
Location: Yes
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Loving the trip report! We once stayed at a hotel across from Monterey Bay. The seals barking went from very cute in the afternoon to incredibly
annoying at bedtime. Ear plugs, don't leave home without them.
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
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Pompano, not only do you take great photos, you're a master storyteller. Next??
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AmoPescar
Senior Nomad
Posts: 835
Registered: 7-15-2006
Location: North San Diego County
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Mood: Need a Fish Taco and a Pacifico!
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REALLY ENJOYING your pictures and commentary!!!
You have a way with words and a great eye for photo opps!!
I've seen much of the scenery and been to many of the places you wrote about and they are wonderful. I cherish my memories of visits and drives
through these places! CA is truly a beautiful state and I always encourage people to get out and see it.
Many Thanks for sharing!
Miguelamo
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
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Location: Bahia Asuncion
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
...and yup, it was a RV Park!
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You were real close. Must've past us by a single block. I think we were in baja anyways.
The 'golf ball' in the distance is right over 'Mavericks', the world famous surf spot. During the event people climb up that cliff and watch
downwards. The professional photographers show up with their expensive cameras and set up their tripods up there. In the summer time there was very
good fishing on the reef that actually creates those big waves in the winter.
A couple of other notes:
'Pelican Point' is really 'Pigeon Point'. I agree, Pelican sounds more appropriate.
The rock off the coast your standing by is 'Greyhound Rock'. The beach below is a nice stop if you need to stretch your legs.
Speaking of seals. You must have passed Ano Nuevo with the small island that has the abandoned house on it. The seals are the only ones on the island
now. When the kids were small we referred to it as "the house with the stinky seals". I've never been inside but can well imagine.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Opps...'Pidgeon' Point is was, indeed. Y'know..I knew that, cuz I was thru there last year, too..and took some photos that I have correctly named.
Don't know how I got onto Pelican..but hey, I'm getting forgetful these days. Must be the meds or the Beck's or the dirty martinis...or.. I can lay
it all at Co-pilot's door like I do with all my other goof-ups.
And yes, we have made footprints on that stretch of beach below your Greyhound Rock. Nice to put a name to the place.
I have seen that delapitated ruin a few times now...and always wondered at it's history. A mysterious looking place.
I've had some times along that stretch near Pescadero...oh yes!
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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irenemm
Senior Nomad
Posts: 623
Registered: 7-16-2009
Location: vicente guerrero, baja
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Mood: relaxed
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OH Pompano
Thank you so much for the trip. I have been up and down hwy 1 and 101 most of my life. This is such a nice trip.
We would camp at Pigeon Point when I was a kid with my grandparents they so loved it there.
I love reading all your stories and seeing your pictures. Thank you for taking all of us along on your adventure.
The summer weather here in Vicente Guerrero this year is so like the weather in that area. It has make me homesick.
Can not wait for the rest of the journey.
Irene
again thank you and have a safe and fun trip.
I may have to sto away in the motorhome next trip.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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The pleasure is all mine, irenemm. Glad I can share this photo
-journal with you and bring back memories of your times on the Coast Highway.
Stay right where you are, because there's whole lot more coast drive to see.
Next stops are Moss Landing, Half Moon Bay, and San Francisco..
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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PART 9 -Half Mooned in the Bay - The Gate
PART 9
HALF MOON BAY, etc
Yawn...ah, great sleep . Smell that ocean air! Has a real earthy bite to it, no? Almost like...Erps...well, schucks and
Opps..forgot to put the discharge end of the sewer hose into the park's hookup. That'll wash up real easy, I'm sure..not to worry.
Motoring up Coast Highway 1 from Pillar Point RV Park, we come across this scene: A group of people protesting... something? They were waving red
flags and shouting rapid-fire in Spanish...to fast for me to follow. College tuition most likely.
I recall being in a protest line once in Mulege. Alex was pouring what I thought were short shots at the Mesquite Bar and I took up the protest march
outside in the square. The police gave me a choice of deportation or buying a round.
Driving onward, my interest turns to all the different kinds of trees one encounters in a day's travel. Okay..so it's not very interesting to
you..just thought I'd throw them in, since I took the photos anyway. "Look Co-pilot!! Trees!
Half Moon Bay is kinda touristy, but still fun to look around and enjoy the scenery and events. We toured a museum, did our laundry downtown, and
took a walking tour around the boutiques. My companion insisted that I needed a manicure...sheesh...what's a hangnail between friends?
We stop in a shop for some good Italian coffee to wake one up..although jolt one up might be more like it! Plus Co-pilot
finds another dog to molest on the streets.
One great little shop specializing in creative kitchens was owned by this fellow Italian, who took an instant shine to Co-pilot. I bought an
apron, a French press coffee maker (we'll call it an Italian French press), and some other items...souveniers from this lovely lady in downtown Half
Moon Bay.
We asked about a good place to have dinner. (We had cioppino in mind after some laughs watching "The Coastal Chef" on the
tube the last couple nights. What a riot that guy was...we love him. He looks and sounds like he's from Bombay..instructing Americans on how to
cook coastal Italian. A real hoot.)
Our Italian storekeeper recommended Meza Luna, but it turns out they were not open..so we opted for the next one she liked..The Crab
Connection..I think? ...next to the marina.
Suffice to say..we were not impressed. Maybe it was a bad day in the kitchen, but $100 for a light lunch of poorly made cioppino, 2 small (thank
God) glasses of bad vino, and probably the worst Oysters Rockerfeller I've ever ordered did not make for a great experience.
The view was good, though, and so was the service. Now, if they could just hire a good chef! Hey, maybe the Coastal Chef needs some extra salary?
I can see it now...Curried Cioppino.
To make up for the bad lunch..and speed up digestion and elimination..we went for a long walk.
The local marina is always tops on my list of walking places.
Now a real treat arises, we must go meet some friends from Back In The Day Baja. They live in Half Moon Bay and had contacted us upon reading this
thread..where we will visit old Baja amigos, Peter & Mary (Hey.. if they only had a son named Paul, eh?)
We drive our behemoth up steep streets and tight turns to reach thier lovely house nestled in a wooded area..very pristine place. They both have
very green thumbs, it appears. NICE.
Mary had a superb collection of copper kitchen utensils...garnered from estate auctions and treasure hunts in out-of-the-way places. A very homey
feel.
Another Italian, Mary will not take No for an answer to have lunch..so we willingly eat GREAT FOOD..con mucho gusto after the cioppino disaster.
Bravo, Mary! It was so wonderful to visit and eat good things at your table. Including that great vino, Peter!
We say adios to my old friends from 70's and 80's when we met in Coyote Bay. Hasta pronto, muchachos.
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THE GATE
Now we are bound for the Golden Gate.
What can I say about this great bridge?
Impressive?
Inspirational?
Swan dives?
I love fog. Dunno why. I refrained from shinnying up those tubes...
The north end overlook has a killer panoramic view of the Gate and San Francisco Bay. You have to spend some time here.
I tell Co-pilot about the time I stopped in this very same viewpoint in my old Minnie Winnie. Was 1988. I was northbound, crossed the Gate
late afternoon, and thus pulled in here to rest for a bit. The more I sat there and enjoyed the peace and view..rather than fight that damn
traffic..the more I wanted to stay. So I did, ignoring the signs saying no overnight camping..Hey, I'm tired and would be a menace on the freeway,
right?
I was also hungry..and had an idea.
I went over to the phone booth at the overlook, looked up a pizza delivery in Sausalito (closest town to the north) and dialed them up. I placed my
order for a large half&half pepperoni/pinapple ham pizza..and requested delivery to the north end overlook of the Golden Gate Bridge. The girl on
the line said that was not possible, but I persisted and asked to speak to her boss. He came on..I told him my situation of being here and spending
the night on the bridge viewpoint. Even gave him the phone number of the pay phone, my name, my vehicle plate, etc.
He laughed and said..Why not? About 30 minutes later, my pizza arrived nice and hot...
I had a great night staying at the viewpoint with the city and boats spread out below me. VERY SCENIC. The pizza was superb, too.
Now here's the kicker to this little pizza narrative. The following year, 1989, I did the same thing.
I pulled the Minnie into the same overlook..parked in almost the same spot..used the very same phone to call the very same pizza place. I told the
girl what I wanted..she said just a minute and put the manager on the horn. I re-interated my request. He said.."By any chance, were you at the
overlook last year?? This the same guy?"
Smiling, we had a good reunion..and I got my pizza again. Talk about making your own Deja Vu.
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Well, on this 2010 trip, Co-pilot and I do the same thing, but NO pizza this time. I'm on a diet. We slept in the motorhome on the
overlook..with no problems.
When we woke, however, this Bridge Patrol car was parked directly in front of us. I got my coffee and walked over to speak with the driver. I said
good morning and asked how to get back southbound onto the bridge. He gave me directions...which I already knew, but hey, it was an ice-breaker. He
was one of the good guys.
Getting turned around..and passing once again over the Gate..we drive downtown to the Embarcadero..and ADVENTURE...
TO BE CONTINUED
[Edited on 8-8-2010 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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tripledigitken
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4848
Registered: 9-27-2006
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Pescadero
Roger,
Next time you're in the area Duarte's Tavern is a must stop. It is close to Half Moon Bay, a restaurant we used to drive to from San Bruno to dine
at. Thinking of their Cream of Artichoke soup and a plate of fried smelt makes me want to go right now.
http://www.duartestavern.com/menu.html
Ken
found a photo
[Edited on 8-6-2010 by tripledigitken]
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
I recall being in a protest line once in Mulege. Alex was pouring what I thought were short shots at the Mesquite Bar and I took up the protest march
outside in the square. The police gave me a choice of deportation or buying a round.
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The local farms around here had abruptly let go all or most of the illegals workers. Most of the people you see in the fields as you drive by are
illegal Mexicans who have become part of the community. There was a great deal of unrest for a while. I remember that day.
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irenemm
Senior Nomad
Posts: 623
Registered: 7-16-2009
Location: vicente guerrero, baja
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Mood: relaxed
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Pompano,
I love this, I was born in San Francisco and love the fog. Everyone thinks I am a little crazy. Don't like to drive it but just walking around and the
feel of it.
we lived in Linden Ville was a housing project in the 50's.
That Bridge is the most amazing site to see one can never tire of it.
Thanks again for the fun trip. Has Co-Pilot ever been the coast route?
I hope she is enjoying this as much as you.
I am
thanks again
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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If you had stopped at the other end of the bridge you could've helped her. 
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