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PaulW
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3074
Registered: 5-21-2013
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For sure the individual valve stem attachments at a preset pressure is fast and handy. Trouble is I use 3 different pressures depending on the
difficulty.
That is why I use the one with the gauge I have worn out my favorite one and replaced it with another brand that is digital. total waste of $ because
of the inaccuracy. Tried another brand with a bourdon tube gauge like the first on and it was not accurate. My latest on is an analog gauge from ARB.
costs more and my testing vs a lab grade gauge reveals it is dead on.
One more comment for the one that removes the core - practice to avoid the loss of core. That hint is very valuable. Of course spare core is good.
BTW my new Jeep displays tire pressure and it is very inaccurate. Cannot depend on the Jeep for tire pressure.
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Quote: Originally posted by Bajazly |
Those are ok but don't stay calibrated very well. This type you have the ability to go to whatever pressure you want and it keeps the valve stem
inside the body so it can't get dropped in the sand.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64845
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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I have them, used them a few times in 2016, one let too much air out for some reason. Back to just depressing the valve with a tool on my keys. I am
not in a hurry in Baja... I am on vacation.
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PaulW
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3074
Registered: 5-21-2013
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The key is practice until perfect.
Those of us who deflated for every trip to the desert get the practice which is why I wore out the first one.
First time I used it the core fell out and I had to scramble to get it back before the tire went flat.
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John M
Super Nomad
Posts: 1921
Registered: 9-3-2003
Location: California High Desert
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So, are the STAUN deflators "Baja Proven"
This, in the original package, came from one of the few off-road shops back in the early 1970s. We've only had it out of the package and used it a
couple of times - bet it won't work on our truck today.
Yes, however, it IS (was) Baja Proven 'cause Dick Cepek labeled it so.
Edited to add that for those who don't know, you took out a spark plug and screwed in an adaptor and ran the hose from the adaptor to the valve stem
to add "compressed" air directly out of the cylinder.
John M
[Edited on 9-21-2021 by John M]
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Mr. Bills
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Posts: 189
Registered: 9-10-2019
Location: Area Code 530
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I haven't seen one of those "chuffers" in many many years.
Ironically, one was given to my father by Dick Cepek himself in 1965 when Dick was still selling Armstrong 11-15 farm implement "flotation" tires out
of his one-car garage at his home in South Gate.
Chuffers really were "Baja Proven" by Dick and also by my dad at our camp in Nuevo Mazatlan a year or two before David K visited there for the first
time as a boy. They were cumbersome and inconvenient to use, slow too, but they were the high tech of the day.
BTW (on edit), chuffers didn't pump gasoline-laden air from the cylinder directly into the tire. It used a diaphragm to push fresh air into the tire.
[Edited on 9-21-2021 by Mr. Bills]
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Maderita
Senior Nomad
Posts: 667
Registered: 12-14-2008
Location: San Diego
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Quote: Originally posted by John M |
...Edited to add that for those who don't know, you took out a spark plug and screwed in an adaptor and ran the hose from the adaptor to the valve
stem to add "compressed" air directly out of the cylinder.
[Edited on 9-21-2021 by John M] |
Perhaps this needs another edit The air for the tire did not come directly from
the cylinder. The cylinder pressure (120-160 psi or so) drove a small piston which cycled with the engine cylinder pressure. That small
piston/cylinder was supplied with clean air from outside. Note that the package even says "Pumps Clean Fresh Air".
Funny story: I had a Land Cruiser FJ40 back in the 1970s. Upon returning to Baja pavement, I screwed the device into the spark plug hole on the
inline-6 engine. Standard operating procedure for filling up those ubiquitous 11x15 Armstrong bias-ply Tru-Tracs (anyone here remember those?)
Unfortunately, I neglected to ground the ignition cable (aka: spark plug wire), leaving it hanging. A spark ignited the hydrogen gas from the battery
vent. The entire side of the battery blew out with a bang! Washed off the spilled acid and the battery still worked, but at a reduced 10 volts. Just
enough to spin the starter and drive home. Just one humorous lesson from the Baja school of hard knocks...
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Maderita
Senior Nomad
Posts: 667
Registered: 12-14-2008
Location: San Diego
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Quote: Originally posted by John M | This, in the original package, came from one of the few off-road shops back in the early 1970s. We've only had it out of the package and used it a
couple of times - bet it won't work on our truck today.
Yes, however, it IS (was) Baja Proven 'cause Dick Cepek labeled it so.
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My "spark plug pump" was no doubt purchased at Dick Cepek Offroad in El Cajon. Worked great when heads were cast iron, spark plugs were visible, and
you could access with hands and a socket wrench. I wouldn't even try it on a modern vehicle. Even if you could see what you were doing, squeeze your
hands in, and had the appropriate flexible extensions for the socket, the thought of stripping the threads on an aluminum head is scary.
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John M
Super Nomad
Posts: 1921
Registered: 9-3-2003
Location: California High Desert
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Edits and ...
Thanks for the corrections and better explanations MrBills and Maderita
We did have the Tru-Tracs from Cepek on our '68 Bronco - that we wish we still had.
JM
[Edited on 9-21-2021 by John M]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64845
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Before the electric air pumps were the big ticket, we used the engine compression pump, as well.
As stated, the gas/air mix does not go into the tire (I used to argue that point)... a device with a check valve, drew in fresh air and that was
pumped into the tires.
So, yes, you are running on one less cylinder while filling the tires but it was pretty fast. The bad part was having to handle hot spark plug and hot
device removal at the start and end of the refill. I last used mine in 70s... before fuel injection and electronic ignition.
Here is how the device works:
Here is a video of one working:
https://fb.watch/8a91dGEE-m/
or
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=3056398987787809
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PaulW
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3074
Registered: 5-21-2013
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Save the thing it probably is worth something?
It was very practical back in the day.
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AKgringo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6025
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Mood: Retireded
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To get at a spark plug in my Kia, you must remove parts that will prevent the other three cylinders from firing. I doubt that the battery and
starting motor would be up to filling a few tires!
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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John M
Super Nomad
Posts: 1921
Registered: 9-3-2003
Location: California High Desert
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Redundancy
In those late 60's early 70's we actually carried one of these in addition to the spark plug pump - don't think we ever tried it on one of those
31x10.50x15 tires.
John M
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willardguy
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 9-19-2009
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Quote: Originally posted by John Harper | They sold those for motorcycles too, as most the dirt bikes had an easy to get at spark plug, being a two stroke.
John
[Edited on 9-22-2021 by John Harper] |
so what did you do kick like mad or get a tow
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John Harper
Super Nomad
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Registered: 3-9-2017
Location: SoCal
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Never used one, but kick till you "kick" is likely to happen before the tire is inflated. Shut off the gas, drain bowl, and you pump air direct from
the cylinder. It was advertised for emergency use.
John
[Edited on 9-22-2021 by John Harper]
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geoffff
Senior Nomad
Posts: 674
Registered: 1-15-2009
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Hmmm, impressive! I don't get stuck down to the frame in sand often, but I had never thought that just turning the steering left and right would get
me out (aired down, in low, and diffs locked of course I know). I wonder if it matters what kind of sand? I find coarse beach sand to be the worst.
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geoffff
Senior Nomad
Posts: 674
Registered: 1-15-2009
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Quote: Originally posted by David K | As Geoffff, Pappy Jon, Mike Younghusband, etc. know... I am happy to relay your inReach or Spot device help messages, sent to me, on to Nomads or
friends of yours. We will get it figured out so you are not without assistance!
While I was driving all over Baja alone doing the guide and map research for Baja Bound, several amigos here were following me because I had a DeLorme
(now Garmin) inReach device. We could also exchange messages, sometimes almost instantly. It was a relief! My wife and I could also communicate.
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Quote: Originally posted by aburruss | Does it make sense to put together a "region by region" contact list for us nomads?
Friends of DavidK, 4x4abc, JZ, PaulW, Stucksucks, mtgoat666(even though we know he never goes to baja.. hahah! jk) etc, etc, etc,..
People that we actually KNOW down there that would be good resources for any of us when we run into problems, are stuck, are broken, etc? I think that
would be a fantastic use of our combined resources!
[Edited on 9-20-2021 by aburruss] |
Yes! That would be super great! I don't like imposing on people, but in a real emergency I could. I am happy to compile and forward on phone # info
via PM if we want to make a list!
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JZ
Select Nomad
Posts: 10541
Registered: 10-3-2003
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Quote: Originally posted by geoffff | Quote: Originally posted by David K | As Geoffff, Pappy Jon, Mike Younghusband, etc. know... I am happy to relay your inReach or Spot device help messages, sent to me, on to Nomads or
friends of yours. We will get it figured out so you are not without assistance!
While I was driving all over Baja alone doing the guide and map research for Baja Bound, several amigos here were following me because I had a DeLorme
(now Garmin) inReach device. We could also exchange messages, sometimes almost instantly. It was a relief! My wife and I could also communicate.
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Quote: Originally posted by aburruss | Does it make sense to put together a "region by region" contact list for us nomads?
Friends of DavidK, 4x4abc, JZ, PaulW, Stucksucks, mtgoat666(even though we know he never goes to baja.. hahah! jk) etc, etc, etc,..
People that we actually KNOW down there that would be good resources for any of us when we run into problems, are stuck, are broken, etc? I think that
would be a fantastic use of our combined resources!
[Edited on 9-20-2021 by aburruss] |
Yes! That would be super great! I don't like imposing on people, but in a real emergency I could. I am happy to compile and forward on phone # info
via PM if we want to make a list! |
Hey Geofff, that would be incredible. It would be invaluable to many on here. I'm sure Paul would help out too.
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Maderita
Senior Nomad
Posts: 667
Registered: 12-14-2008
Location: San Diego
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A couple of observations about this video:
As TMW noted, the truck had locking diffs front and rear. That provides roughly 4x the traction available to a 2WD truck, and 2x more than a typical
4x4 with standard open diffs. That truck engine likely had way more than the average amount of torque.
I've found that at times, turning the steering wheel back and forth can assist; also at times while hunting for traction on loose hill climbs and on
mud. But it is no magic solution as presented. It had more to do with locking diffs, torque at low rpm, and airing down.
Regarding airing down, he recommended 15-20 psi in the video. That is too much air for optimal flotation with those tires and on that truck. The truck
made it out, but it is important to know that it could have done even better. Nearing the end of the video, the truck pulls onto flat sand. The slight
bulge in the BFG AT's is noticeable, but not close to the threshold where there is risk of popping off the wheel bead. He could run dunes at 11-12
psi. To get unstuck, 10 psi. And if that doesn't do it, 8 psi, but only long enough to get out of the hole and unstuck.
That appeared to be a regular cab 1/2 ton truck. Unloaded, approx. 4,500 lbs. A heavier truck (1-ton, quad cab, diesel engine, and/or with a camper)
would need a little more air. Add 2 or 3 psi to the above numbers.
When deflating, keep an eye on the sidewall. Ideally, the tire will make a smooth, uniform rounded bulge. Tires with stiff sidewalls may not bulge
much as you air down until they buckle and form a crease. Crease = bad, so add a little more air to avoid damaging the tire and rim cuts.
I ran dunes (Glamis/Gordon's/Buttercup) with a 3,600 lb. Wrangler for a couple decades, both with rear paddles or on four 33 x 12.50 BFGs, locking
diffs front and rear, bored & stroked I-6 making 260 hp. Keeping up with the buggies, I popped the beads a very few times running hard and
jumping. Overall 10 psi was a good number. If the sand is wet and hard, air up to 14+ psi when deliberately pulling hard sliding turns (don't ask how
I know
I just noticed that what I had assumed were fake/cosmetic beadlock wheels on that truck may actually be true beadlocks. Beadlock wheels will
accommodate even lower psi.
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pacificobob
Super Nomad
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Registered: 4-23-2006
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Quote: Originally posted by David K | I have them, used them a few times in 2016, one let too much air out for some reason. Back to just depressing the valve with a tool on my keys. I am
not in a hurry in Baja... I am on vacation. |
I bought some years ago
Quit using them for the same reason. Lots of time for more beers while you inflate the tires that went too low.
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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In 2010 I was following the Baja 1000 course after the race in Baja Sur and I see this beautiful beach at Baca Guadalupe so I turn my GMC Z71 toward
it.Well I hit the sand and in about 20-30 feet I started digging in. I get out and lower the air in my tires to 20psi. I go 3 or 4 feet and start
digging in again. I lower it to 15psi same thing. Finally I go down to 10psi and out I go. Since I was alone I thought it best to stay on course and
head for La Paz. I did air back up on the hard pack.
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