ftrphb
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Tren Maya, Merida?
I just bought a ticket for Merida. I want to check the Tren Maya. Anybody know anything about these things? looking for some advice.
[Edited on 1-27-2026 by ftrphb]
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lencho
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Quote: Originally posted by ftrphb  | | I just bought a ticket for Merida. I want to check the Tren Maya. Anybody know anything about these things? looking for some advice.
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Advice? Unless you got a great price to Mérida, consider flying into Cancún (probably a better flight) and taking the train straight from that
airport to Mérida. Two birds with one stone.
The train runs way outside most the city centers, and the CUN airport is one of the few stations convenient to where you'd likely be (arriving).
"I can normally tell how intelligent a man is, by how stupid he thinks I
am."
"...they were careful of their demeanor that they not be thought to have opinions on what they heard for like most men skilled at their work they
were scornful of any least suggestion of knowing anything not learned at first hand."
Cormac McCarthy, All the Pretty Horses
"Be kind, be patient, help others." -- Isabel Allende
"My gas stove identifies as electric." Anonymous
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BajaNomad
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Thread Split
1-28-2026 at 09:29 AM |
cupcake
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I have been to all those ancient sites (and so many more), but I traveled using public buses, collectivos, and walking.
https://rutatrenmaya.com/
I love ancient sites and never tire of them. I realize many people don't have the same level of interest.
Campeche is my favorite large town in the Yucatan, and Edzna is the major ancient site in that area. You will probably enjoy Merida. See Chichen Itza
if possible. Ek' Balam is a major site in that area as well. Uxmal is one of the most impressive sites in the Merida area and one of my favorite in
the Yucatan; it doesn't see the same crowds as does Chichen Itza. There are many small but excellent ruin sites in the Xpujil area. Most people enjoy
Tulum. Palenque is one of the great sites and there is an excellent museum nearby. Calakmul is a great site, but some find it a bit of a slog to
reach.
I also love cenotes. They are magical.
Post any site or area specific questions you might have here on this thread and I will answer them if I can. Have a great trip!
[Edited on 1-29-2026 by cupcake]
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surabi
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Not on the Mayan trail, this one is on the west coast.
"The Altavista Petroglyph Complex in Nayarit, Mexico, near the coastal town of Chacala, features hundreds of ancient rock carvings created by the
indigenous Tecoxquin people. Situated in the mountains, this sacred site contains roughly 2,000 petroglyphs—including spirals, human figures, and
geometric designs—that remain largely mysterious in meaning.
Key Details About the Altavista Petroglyphs:
Location: Located near the village of Chacala, south of Compostela Municipality, Nayarit, Mexico.
Origin: Created by the Tecoxquin indigenous group.
Site Significance: The site, locally known as "La Pila del Rey" (The King's Basin), contains around 2,000 glyphs.
Motifs: Carvings include spirals, donut-shaped holes, human figures (like the "Shaman"), and symbols representing cardinal points.
Cultural Importance: The area is still considered sacred by the Huichol Indians, who use it for ceremonies.
Access: It is accessible via walking trails in the mountains, often guided by local inhabitants.
(Note regarding "Access" above: What is stated there (from Google) is not accurate. It isn't nearly as remote as they make it sound. In fact, you can
drive there, although the secondary roads in, which are just small dirt roads between farms and orchards, can be impassable in rainy season.
Otherwise, you just turn off the main highway (200) towards the town of Alta Vista, go about a kilometer, then there is a turnoff to the site. I've
walked in from the highway, it takes maybe 45 minutes. And while the walk isn't flat, it certainly isn't what I would call a mountainous walk. Nor do
you need a guide. But it isn't well-marked, so you have to know how to get there, as it is still used by the Huichols as a sacred site- they don't
want hoards of tourists traipsing through. There are signs throughout the site with info about the known history of the place.There's a caretaker at
the site who you should tip. At least that's how it was the last time I was there, which was several years ago. Maybe they charge admission now.)
[Edited on 1-30-2026 by surabi]
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lencho
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How did you get there?
Unfortunately (in my opinion), the Tren Maya is opening up that region and the Cancún hordes now can take the train to their luxury hotel at something like 12 km from the ruins.
There goes the neighborhood. 
"I can normally tell how intelligent a man is, by how stupid he thinks I
am."
"...they were careful of their demeanor that they not be thought to have opinions on what they heard for like most men skilled at their work they
were scornful of any least suggestion of knowing anything not learned at first hand."
Cormac McCarthy, All the Pretty Horses
"Be kind, be patient, help others." -- Isabel Allende
"My gas stove identifies as electric." Anonymous
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cupcake
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| Quote: Originally posted by lencho |
How did you get there?
Unfortunately (in my opinion), the Tren Maya is opening up that region and the Cancún hordes now can take the train to their luxury hotel at something like 12 km from the ruins.
There goes the neighborhood. |
I took a taxi from Xpujil, had it wait at Calakmul while I spent hours seeing the site, then return me to Xpujil. This was circa 2018, the cost was
possibly $100 US equivalent, I can't remember.
On the way back to Xpujil, I paid extra to make a stop at the Balamku site. The "exquisite, ornate stucco frieze" at that site was closed at that
time, so I saw the rest of the site and went back to see the frieze the next year.
I am a low budget traveler, staying in the least expensive hotel rooms I can find. But, I don't skimp on costs to reach sites. I would feel like I
would be cheating myself if I did.
At the time, there was a taxi stand in the center of tiny Xpujil. I stayed about 10 days in Xpujil on that trip, seeing every ruin site in the greater
area that I knew of. In addition to taking taxis to the sites, you could catch collectivos. What I would normally do is take a taxi to the site, cut
the taxi loose, see the site to my hearts content, walk out to the highway and wait for a collectivo coming by for the trip back to Xpujil. This
worked very well for me.
From Xpujil, the farthest day trip to the east was to the Kohunlich site, which is fantastic. On the same day I took a taxi to the sites of Kinichna
and Dzibanche, in the same area, which are well worth seeing.
Many other sites to see from Xpujil, some you can walk to from town.
Also from Xpujil, I paid to be taken to sites in the Rio Bec area on a "fast bike" which I believe is a quadrunner. These are more remote sites.
Due south of Escarcega is the site of El Tigre, which sees little tourist traffic, but it is an impressive site. I reached that site via taxi from a
hotel room in the town of Candalaria.
In Xpujil I have stayed at the Hotel Victoria for 200 pesos and also the Hotel Gran Garra Jaguar for 250 pesos. Both were good (by my standards). I
don't know if either place is still there or what their rates might be now.
[Edited on 1-30-2026 by cupcake]
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cupcake
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| Quote: Originally posted by surabi | Not on the Mayan trail, this one is on the west coast.
"The Altavista Petroglyph Complex in Nayarit, Mexico, near the coastal town of Chacala, features hundreds of ancient rock carvings created by the
indigenous Tecoxquin people. Situated in the mountains, this sacred site contains roughly 2,000 petroglyphs—including spirals, human figures, and
geometric designs—that remain largely mysterious in meaning.
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Thanks for the tip on the Altavista Petroglyph Complex. Looks like a site well worth visiting. I haven't yet been to Chacala. I have spent time in
Tepic, San Blas, and Puerto Vallarta.
[Edited on 1-30-2026 by cupcake]
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chippy
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I would ditch the train idea and get a rentacar in Merida,then the Mayan world is your oyster.
I did that last April and it was great!
[Edited on 1-30-2026 by chippy]
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lencho
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Betcha it's grown beyond recognition since you were there, because of the train line. Intensely during construction, and continuously into the future
because of the increase in tourist traffic.
I was in Valladolid last year and folks there told me there was a huge infusion of personnel and resources during construction, with prices not
returning to pre-boom levels after the crews left.
The positive side of that, is an infusion of funds into the local economy (it appears prosperous), but it's no longer the same Mayan
bastion that it was years ago. I had local (guys) tell me they were embarrassed to speak Mayan in public! 
"I can normally tell how intelligent a man is, by how stupid he thinks I
am."
"...they were careful of their demeanor that they not be thought to have opinions on what they heard for like most men skilled at their work they
were scornful of any least suggestion of knowing anything not learned at first hand."
Cormac McCarthy, All the Pretty Horses
"Be kind, be patient, help others." -- Isabel Allende
"My gas stove identifies as electric." Anonymous
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cupcake
Senior Nomad
Posts: 705
Registered: 4-23-2024
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| Quote: Originally posted by lencho |
I was in Valladolid last year and folks there told me there was a huge infusion of personnel and resources during construction, with prices not
returning to pre-boom levels after the crews left.
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Valladolid was a very nice town to spend some days in when I was last there, just before the start of the Covid Pandemic. I had a very good room at
the Sol Colonial for 180 pesos. Of the cenotes I saw in and around town, I particularly enjoyed Cenote Samula, where I had a lovely swim.
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