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k-rico
Super Nomad
Posts: 2079
Registered: 7-10-2008
Location: Playas de Tijuana
Member Is Offline
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Baja vs. the mainland
I recently finished a 5 week 4000 mile RV trip to the mainland. Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Jalisco, Colima, and Michoacan. I visited many spots along
the coast. It was a great trip for many reasons but one of the best aspects was the RV parks were essentially empty because it was an off season trip.
No crowds.
One of my objectives was to make a decision about where to spend winters. Tijuana gets a bit too cold for me.
The fundamental decision was Baja Sur or the mainland?
Baja is it! We're fortunate to have such a great and diverse place so close.
So, for my first winter free of corporate demands I'll be looking for a place to rent on the Sea of Cortez from Santa Rosalia to the East Cape.
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bajalou
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4459
Registered: 3-11-2004
Location: South of the broder
Member Is Offline
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I think the vehicle fee is about 30 bucks for US plated cars to visit the mainland. The Temp. Importation is good for as long as your visa is. FMT,
FM2 or FM3 About 25 bucks for a Baja Calif plated "Frontera" car to do the same thing.
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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Osprey
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3694
Registered: 5-23-2004
Location: Baja Ca. Sur
Member Is Offline
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Great to hear that Baja Sur is still attractive to some. Even the weather can change to suit your tastes -- since I first landed in East Cape I've
thought the winters were too cold for me, sometimes I wondered if I might not be better off way down on the mainland near Hautulco. Then, measured
against all the other things I like here along comes a few years when we have no real winter. The ocean temp defines our seasons and this last year we
didn't need heaters or long pants or sweaters at all. So if the heat doesn't bother you you'll be surrounded by people who really love it here.
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bajagrouper
Senior Nomad
Posts: 964
Registered: 8-28-2003
Location: Rincon de Guayabitos, Nayarit, Mexico
Member Is Offline
Mood: happy and retired
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I would also be interested in your decision, after traveling in Baja for many years ( 1962 through 2003 ) I ended up buying a retirement home in a
small beach resort town north of Puerto Vallarta...and have never regretted it, maybe it is the difference between desert brown vs. jungle green..
cost of housing / living...etc. etc.
It's your turn K-rico, what made the difference in your decision?
I hear the whales song
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rocmoc
Nomad
Posts: 234
Registered: 5-25-2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Member Is Offline
Mood: Live today like it maybe your LAST!
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I too would like to hear the reasons.
We have traveled the mainland as far South El Faro on the west coast, almost a day below PV, and thu most of the Highlands north of Mexico City.
While we have found a couple of places we love, there really wasn't anyplace we could play with the toys safely except kayaking in El Faro.
While we have been thu Baja several times flying & renting a car, this will be the first winter in the RV with toys. We have been in Cabo when it
was 90 degrees in Feb which was not the norm. So as Osprey said, will we be too cold for the entire winter? We don't like anything below 76
degrees, it is hot here in AZ & we are Desert Rats.
K-rico, share with us WHY!
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
[Edited on 05-25-2009 by rocmoc]
[Edited on 05-25-2009 by rocmoc]
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
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MitchMan
Super Nomad
Posts: 1856
Registered: 3-9-2009
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After fishing Loreto for 10 years, I decided to buy a place somewhere in Mexico. So, I went on a 21 day whirlwind tour, setting up real estate agent
appointments in advance in each location. Itinerary: Guaymas/San Carlos, Mazatlan, Hermosillo, Guadalajara, Puerto Vallarta, Xtapa/Zihuatenejo,
Cabo, La Paz, Loreto, Mulege. Final analysis - Picked Loreto!
All things considered, for me, Loreto was the best choice by far. Quiet, not a tourist trap, beauty (not many places have three sides of the town
surrounded by low beautiful mountains and a magnificent nearby Island), best fishing, nice people, not commercial, no loud night life (night life is a
tourist/American thing characterized by 20 somethings pounding down bears like the world was going to end - not a Mexican cultural thing - that's
Newport Beach American culture), close to an international airport, low prices for food and real estate, drivable from the US, warmer weather (not
present in Baja towns on the coast within 200 miles of the US border), history (oldest mission in any of the Californias), close to Mulege, access to
fishing grounds very close and easiest to get to. Can any other place top that?
Loreto, that's my pick.
I must say that I was very attracted to Puerto Vallarta, especially the Nayarit area. Good residential real estate and good prices and Nayarit's
proximity to PV was just a 30 minute drive, yet still far enough away to be away from the commericalism of PV (favorite restaurant in all of Mexico,
besides Anderson's in Mexico City is Bogart's in PV). PV is tropical, Loreto and points north of San Jose del Cabo are not tropical. Then there is
Xtapa/Zihuatenejo. Very, very tropical and that is a huge plus (they have crocodiles there! Side point, I love the Spanish word for crocodiles ..
"cocodriles"; try saying it in Spanish, it's fun). My only concern was the fishing.
[Edited on 6-21-2009 by MitchMan]
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bajagrouper
Senior Nomad
Posts: 964
Registered: 8-28-2003
Location: Rincon de Guayabitos, Nayarit, Mexico
Member Is Offline
Mood: happy and retired
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Hola Mitch Man, I am in Nayarit and we have plenty of fish on this side also, many friends have their own boats, there are panga fishing guides, panga
commercial fishermen, shrimp farms near San Blas..every morning the pangas beach with fresh fish for sale, friends catch sail, marlin and
dorado...don't forget the many rivers and lakes where bass fishing is available...no need to be concerned about fishing around here, we also have a 14
foot croc in a lagoon...suerte
I hear the whales song
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k-rico
Super Nomad
Posts: 2079
Registered: 7-10-2008
Location: Playas de Tijuana
Member Is Offline
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The biggest drawback to the mainland is distance both physically, which is easy to understand, and psychologically, which is not so easy to explain.
And, the physical distance is made worse by the fact that the drive seemed much more difficult than the number of miles would indicate. I found
driving through Sonora a real chore. The way I drive, slowly in 300 mile chunks, means it takes 3 nights on the road to reach Mazatlan and I didn't
like anything north of Mazatlan. It's like it takes a few days of not very pleasant driving just to get started. Airplanes are not an option.
I liked Nayarit just south of San Blas the best. The small town of Aticama is high on the list. The PV area is not for me for the same reasons I don't
like Los Cabos. I also liked the Costalegre area in Jalisco, but not that much more than I like southern Baja. Bahia Chamela is a special place but
it's in the category of "nice to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there".
I thought Michoacan would be the place to be because it's largely undeveloped. But I found out the reason is because it's largely inaccessible. The
mountains butt up to the ocean. The coast road is a mountain road. We got to Playa Azul and turned around. Ticla and Nexpa are interesting places.
The main reason I like Baja better is simply its proximity (physically and mentally) to my San Diegan roots and I have grown to appreciate the desert
climate, more so than I thought.
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JESSE
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3370
Registered: 11-5-2002
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Its not even close IMHO, Baja sur had the lowest drug related crime rate in all of Mexico. Direct flights to the US in many places if you ever need
medical attention or have to go back in a hurry. Almost no swine flu. And people are way more friendly and relaxed than central Mexico. Dry heat.
Great fishing.
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
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Gremlins
Sad to report that although I was first to ask K-rico the "whys" of his decision, my post is no longer there. Had not been back since I posted it.
Just noted that it was posted twice. So, I sought to delete one of the posts, but they both disappeared.
Anyway, I did expect that the distance thing would be a big part of the decision. And, although I may anger a few folks in Guaymas, I agree that it
really doesn't even start to happen until you get to Mazatlan.
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9011
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
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Driving through Sonora was a chore? 
What's so difficult about a mini two-lane freeway?
I cant believe how much more relaxed I am over here compared to my years driving Mex 1. And that was before The Gauntlet.
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
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You make a good point, Hook. Not to mention the huge increase in truck traffic as BCS developed the resorts. Just curious as to what you consider the
gauntlet.
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9011
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
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TJ to Ensenada for about the last 18 months or so. Seems there has been an, uh, increase in violent crime in that area.
But even as recently as 10 years ago, I started to get tired of how long it was taking to get to SQ, compared to just a few years earlier. It used to
be once you cleared Maneadero, it was smooth sailing. Increased truck traffic took care of that.
Even the good stretches, like the area from Chapala to about the Vizcaino turnoff, just leave no margin for error.
I recently drove from San Carlos, Sonora to San Felipe including the newly opened route between Puerto Penasco and El Golfo de Santa Clara. There was
probably a total of about 20 miles of dirt detour in there as well as the usual topes in small towns. I was able to average about 55 mph for the
entire trip of about 11 hours of driving. Clearly, I was drastically exceeding the speed limit in large stretches.............although much of it is
posted at 100/110 kph. Not a slow route even legally. Only three toll booths in approximately 300 miles.
When we hit the border with BCN, it was incredible how the roads deteriorated. Sonora has, BY FAR, the best roads I have experienced in Mexico.
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Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8964
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
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Prefiero la peninsula tambien
Baja is more removed from the day-to-day and is more of a large botanical park in comparison to the mainland. I also prefer Baja to Mainland Mexico.
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frizkie
Nomad
Posts: 293
Registered: 9-29-2003
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada & El Chorro, Baja Sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: tranquilo
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Hola Bajagrouper
I spent most of my early Mexico days and years on the mainland north and south of the PV area...but in the end I landed in Baja Sur at El Chorro
(hotsprings) near Miraflores and Santiago. Yup, BCS is definitely my preference.
One thing missing in BCS tho' is you Rick, aka Bajagrouper, I fondly recall that stroll we had along that beach South of Tecolote four or five years
ago with friends as we were looking for the whereabouts of that strange little cliff dwelling critter that was finally identified here on Nomads. That
was a great day, Rick, and I'm happy you're doin' good over there on the other side of the pond but I think I'll be staying here.
Hugs and Happy father's Day to your Dad.
Barb
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
Member Is Offline
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Supposedly, the government has plans for by-pass highways that would eliminate the congestion around Ensenada. Don't know for certain, but I'm
guessing here that the plan was tied into the Colonet port project. Let's not hold our breath.
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daveB
Nomad
Posts: 244
Registered: 11-6-2003
Location: B.C. Canada
Member Is Offline
Mood: wondering about Nomads!
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I love Baja, have really enjoyed the hiking, and exploring a few of its canyons. But I've seen very little of it, only had the little time away from
work so always made it a fly-in vacation with some touring and beach camping. Someday I will return.
Retirement provided other plans, like driving the Pacific mainland for the past seven winters. We look around down on the beach we've gone to every
year and nobody can describe where a better winter climate can be found, 88 in the afternoon and 70 at night and no rain the past two winters. Nearly
every camper we meet has first done trips to Baja. But I always remember a cold wind blowing through San Jose del Cabo during one trip in February
and a dozen sun worshippers huddeled at the base of a concrete wall, trying to stay warm, me one.
Nothing wrong with a bracing morning to get you going out on a Baja hiking trail but, I'm worried now that I've become too soft to take that on again.
We snorkle every day in calm waters, ride bicycles, and always leave lots of time on the way home to travel inland to experience the wonderful variety
that Mexico has to offer. Three month trips have now been extended to six months away. I hope they don't end!
This forum is the best.
[Edited on 6-22-2009 by daveB]
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Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
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I have called the East Cape home for 20 years now.
When I retired 5 years ago I started the cycle of heading to Oaxaca for part of the year. This has been my pattern every since; winters in Los
Barriles, summers traveling the mainland and basically spending most of my time away from home in Oaxaca City.
I love the contrast between the quite desert with views of the sea and the incredible sky that I watched last night and the Spanish/Indian cultural
scene that I am about to fall into later this week.
When I leave Baja Wednesday, I will not miss the heat, I am already sick of sweating.
When I come back from Oaxaca, I will not miss the pollution, I already know how good it will feel to get the air rolling off the sea of Cortez deep in
my lungs, and see the stars again.
I Love Baja, but I also Love Oaxaca, I feel very fortunate that I have both.
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Borregoman
Junior Nomad
Posts: 81
Registered: 3-4-2009
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Member Is Offline
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I'll have to agree....
| Quote: | Originally posted by Hook
TJ to Ensenada for about the last 18 months or so. Seems there has been an, uh, increase in violent crime in that area.
But even as recently as 10 years ago, I started to get tired of how long it was taking to get to SQ, compared to just a few years earlier. It used to
be once you cleared Maneadero, it was smooth sailing. Increased truck traffic took care of that.
Even the good stretches, like the area from Chapala to about the Vizcaino turnoff, just leave no margin for error.
I recently drove from San Carlos, Sonora to San Felipe including the newly opened route between Puerto Penasco and El Golfo de Santa Clara. There was
probably a total of about 20 miles of dirt detour in there as well as the usual topes in small towns. I was able to average about 55 mph for the
entire trip of about 11 hours of driving. Clearly, I was drastically exceeding the speed limit in large stretches.............although much of it is
posted at 100/110 kph. Not a slow route even legally. Only three toll booths in approximately 300 miles.
When we hit the border with BCN, it was incredible how the roads deteriorated. Sonora has, BY FAR, the best roads I have experienced in Mexico.
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Hi Hook,
I have to agree with Hook in regards to the mini-freeway, at least from SC to the border, very easy to drive, much easier than dodging trucks, speed
bumps and red cross tin can warriors along the highway. There is the proximity thing, somehow you do seem closer to America, if that is what you are
looking for, if you end up in Baja. Our place is south of San Felipe, not the average retirement spot and not a place you would want to live year
round due to the excessive heat of summer. Attached is a pic of view from the front porch....
You have to pick your place based on what you like to do and what kind of physical surroundings you need to see out your window. Ours is on a sandbar
and I awake to the SOC 200" from my porch.
Good Luck!
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9011
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
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D-oohhh!!!!
It's gotta be under 50k. Or host it somewhere and paste the link here.
Dock party at 5pm. Gotta run.
[Edited on 6-22-2009 by Hook]
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