Eli
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Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
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The little local mercado
I am on my way home to hide in the studio for the rest of my day, coming from the lovelist little "farmers market" a few blocks up from the posada.
It is layed out typicaly same as the big markets. Yep, this market has all the same goodies, smells, sights and well you know, flowers, and pigs feets
and fresh juice and slabs of beef hanging and fresh hot tortillas kept warm by their own volume stacked in baskets. A tiny old weatherd man that if
it weren't for his eyes shinning out at you, you might mistake him for small dried up tree, sitting on the steps with his little bags of sweet peas
sitting next to some camote, with a few tomatoes some fresh basil. Than there is the stand with cream, chocolate, matches, canned goods and rounds of
white cheese wrapped in corn leave. Next a lady selling pan dulces and bollios. Passing up today on the fresh tamales. Spotting pitch pine sticks for
starting fires next to a few clay pots. It not a artisan market geared to the tourist, but a poylister skirts and simple black pumps, plastic sandles,
nopales, flor de calabasa kind of neighborhood daily buys peoples market.
The kind of place where I buy some bananas from one sweet little old lady and than a couple of apples from her sister in the stand next to her and I
pay only one of them because who needs to hassle change when we all know that in in the end this little bit of change will go into same pot for the
comida they will share. I just know that those two have been there pratically since the beginging of time. They give me the most wonderful gentle
smiles with my fruit and I thank them for the good luck their smiles will surly bring the rest of my day and their smile turns into a full on grins
with a free tangerine thrown in. Life just don't get more sweet than a simple quite Sunday begun in this little market.
Saludos, Sara
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Sallysouth
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I swear!
Eli, I could smell all the aromas in that little mercado while reading your story! Made me feel all warm and relaxed, kinda fuzzy inside.Once again,
thank you for taking me to the mercado with you Sally
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
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Eli: just made my day!
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woody with a view
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sara-
the first time i was in Oaxaca the mercado absolutely blew me away. i was probably 25 years old, just me and a surfboard back at the casita completely
immersed in a cultural difference that i was unprepared for.
when i got off the train after riding overnight from mexico city (one of the coolest nights of my life, BTW!, little kids were pulling on their
parents legs, pointing at the "tall" gringo carrying some strange item under his arm. all i could do was offer a smile and say, "tabla de olas".
i lingered for 3 days enjoying the unbelievably ornate churches, monte alban, the mercado, discovering mole (don't even get me started about mole!),
until the waves at puerto escondido called. another overnight trip down the mountains-this time on a bus and all was well in my world.
thanks for bringing my memories back, front and center.
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Natalie Ann
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Ah Sara (may I call you Sara although we've not yet met?) -
My eyes lit up today when I noticed you'd posted another "day in the life of" story. Now I'm dreaming of los sabores buenos de alimentos
mexicanos.... bollios con queso, pan dulce y cocolate....  :
I so enjoyed your description of the market; felt almost like I was there alongside you.
Sara, please continue your with interesting posts. I did check out your artwork on Yahoo and now am especially eager to visit the gallery.
One question for you or anyone else who might know the answer: Seems there's a lot of women's polyester clothing in MX (even in your marketplace) and
I'm wondering why there's so little cotton clothing. I know this seems like a dumb question... but I always thought cotton was cooler in hot weather
and warmer in cold weather and lasted longer than man-made fabrics. I'd think cotton would be the fabric of choice for daily wear. Stateside shops
sell colorful cotton Mexican skirts and tops - or is this fake or tourista clothing? Is this an issue of expense or something else in Mexico?
Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.
.....Oscar Wilde
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Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
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Natalie Ann, Woody, Santiago y Sally
I truly thank you for your kind words that I will take for the blessing they truly are.
Woody, your memories did make me smile too. How long ago was that anyway? Oaxaca City would no longer gauck at a Gringo with his surf board although
you could turn some eyes back in the hills still.
Holy Mole, me too, negro, rojo y amarillo, yum... Almost had some today, but the budget balked and I was more than happy with my huarache, black bean
paste, queso, red and green sauce with a slab of pork on the side, don't know why I didn't take a picture of it before I ate it, it was so pretty.
Natalie Ann, a few of the why and wherefores of polyester:
It is the style, an identy thing, left over from before the gringas brought respectability back to the huipal and embrodiderd blouses and big skirts.
Twenty years ago, only the poorest indians back in the hills wore cotton. While the modern and hip had adobted western style. Now you see more and
more of the upper and middle class, along with the very poor indians wearing "indiginos styles" here in the South, but the general poor still don't
get it.
Besides, polyester is really cheap and super easy to wash by hand, dries faster and you don't have to iron it to make it look spit and shine so to
speak. So, I expect that even though I don't much like it, those are some very pratical reasons why, if you are poor and do your laundry on a rock.
[Edited on 1-31-2005 by Eli]
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Gypsy Jan
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Sara, (just as Natalie asked, may I call you Sara?)
What a delightful and vivid report about a visit to the street market. When I see your name on a post, I read it first.
Over the holidays, we took some houseguests (a mix of Euros and Americans) to the mercado in the village near to us.
They were mystified by what was offered for sale; single rolls of toilet paper and diapers, bewildering-to-them booths displaying car parts, tools
electronics and toys, then the food stalls with meat (severed pigs' heads on prominent display), gloriously colored fruits and vegetables along with
nuts and dulces (candy). And also, lots of booths offering polyester clothing and cheap sneakers from Asia.
In the face of their puzzlement, I explained that this was a place where the local people did their shopping for their everyday needs and what was
offered is what sells.
I can still see them, our sophisticated guests, shaking their heads as they walked back to our car, trying to comprehend a non-tourist oriented
marketplace.
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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Mike Humfreville
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Eli
Your writen words are even more colorful than your vivid paintings. You have lived in Mexico long enough to bond with the Mexican spirit. In your
writing I sense a want to identify with locals at a mutual level. I try and do that myself, often fail as I have limited experience. The heart of
Mexico can only be felt by a very sensitive person with intimate contact. You have achieved that. In my life I seem to transition between the
"exploratory" and "review" phases. You're now clearly in "exploratory." When your back home and into "review" you must find a way to put your
priceless gems into a collection.
Be safe amiga.
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
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that was probably in '83? back then you had to overnight in mexico city going to puerto esco. we usually crashed against a wall in the airport but
this time, for some strange reason, a twist of fate brought me to a cabbie that i lucked into who took me to a small hotel run by his friend.
early the next morning he and his 7 year old boy arrived to drive the three of us on a day trip to teotehuican! i left my board and duffle with the
manager/friend at the hotel (wondering if they'd be there when i returned. they were, and i was ashamed i'd even considered otherwise).
i didn't know it then, but my surf trip was turning into a wonderfully cultural/historical expedition that 36 hours earlier i had no idea was
possible, remember, i was supposed to be on the 10:30 am flight to puerto escondido. we climbed the pyramid of the sun and wandered all over the
courtyards to the pyramid of the moon. after i bought lunch for the three of us it was time to return.
my guide told me of the train that would go to oaxaca city and monte alban. i'd heard of monte alban somewhere and after somemore coaxing, i said,
"take me to the train station!!!" let the adventures begin!
when we arrived, there was a long line at the counter. my new best friend took some money from me, went to the front of the line as i stood back with
his boy and got me a ticket.
i can't remember if i lucked into the last comparment on the last car or if he bought me that space, but i swear, standing at the end of the train
looking out the open door as it went through the dark, moonlight night was a first. i wished my girl could have been with me. it was sooo beautiful.
next thing i knew it was sunny and the train was slowing down in the oaxaca valley...it was one of the times of my life up to that point.
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Sallysouth
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Ay Mi Sara,
Is it just me or do you read words that seem to sing in these replies? Listen to what your heart brings to others with your stories!You are a true
gem in our lives and we are blessed by your visions (real life!)you share with us. Each and every one I cherish !! Abrazos, Sally
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Eli
Super Nomad
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Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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And again the day begins with the blessings of smiles, be they in the flesh, cyber, or simply in someones heart, I am surrounded by a wealth of
smiles.
On my way to the neighborhood market for breakfast, I go to drop off my laundry and the guy is kind of grumpy but I keep smiling and in fin, my smile
is genuinely returned.
Today, my breakfast of fresh green juice, served to me at the Angelita juice stand, (I love it that they aknowledge Angeles, it is so cosmicilly cool
and correct by me). The guy that makes the juice knows the magic of a grin, and his is as big as they come and he puts on such a show as he pours
juice from 10"s high into his glass jarras. Dios Mio, I wish I had got a picture of that one for prosperity, maybe someday I will be quick enough on
the draw with my little camera. They do a stupendess bustling business, jarras and jarras full of all kinds of beautiful colors of juice, different
degrees of red, orange, greens, reminds me of an artist palete.
So I bought my juice and turned around to sit at a little table next to a giant stemming pot of the best dang hot tamales, got my mole and chicken
today.
Got to say, they make the best tamales in the world in Oaxaca; plenty of masa, not to much fat. One of the things I have never loved about Baja Ca.
Sur, is it's tamales, they are the oppisite of Oaxaca's, fatty, next to no masa, to many potatoes. Again, I am greeted with a kind smile by the lady
who sells them, and a buen provecho by the gentleman I sit down next too. Breakfast will sustain me most of the day, the cost all togeather a
whooping $24 pesos, I am learning......
Mike, I will never be a local, never be a gringa, only an artist and a citizen of plant earth. For as long as I can remember now; the gringos tell me
I am more mexican than not, the pochos don't claim me either, and the mexicans always remind me how well I speak spanish for a gringa, ah well I tell
them I speak lousy spanish considering I have been speaking the language more years then many of them, i.e. since mid 70's, (it is amazing how many
mexicans I know were born after that).
Yes, maybe, hopefullyin this life time I will find the reflective time to orgainze this mess of words that I have left strewn all over cyber space and
in my little computer,ay my, oh dam, what a mess it is right now.
Sally, yes, I note and am so happy, happy, happy to read the positive responses my tales have so far evoked, amazing it tis.
Woody, I again thank you for sharing your memories of a most magical moment in your life; Can you imagine, 20 years ago and they are as vivid today,
well, they are part of your soul now, I expect. Oaxaca (like Baja Ca.) is magic, those of us who have been blessed with the vision that the experinse
of these places provides, that are willing to indulge in the innocence of the simple joys of a few kind words, a sweet smile, we are blessed with an
uncountable wealth.
And Gypsy Jan, yes, you and anyone can call me Sara, of course. What can I say, expect that well, some folks just don't get it, do they? Ah well,
their lose. But we know, don't we? Hope to see you when I go home more soon than not, will you be down South?
Saludos a todos, Sara
[Edited on 2-1-2005 by Eli]
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bajalera
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Location: Santa Maria CA
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Okay, then, I'll feel free to call you Sara, too. And to add that although writing for your own enjoyment [and ours] has its rewards, you eventually
ought to give some thought to taking a shot at writing for money.
bajalera
[Edited on 1-31-2005 by bajalera]
\"Very few things happen at the right time, and the rest never happen at all. The conscientious historian will correct these defects.\" -
Mark Twain
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Annie T.
Junior Nomad
Posts: 72
Registered: 10-18-2002
Location: Hills of Oregon
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Ah Sara, You asked me what we do in La Paz. I wish you were here to write the tales for us. They flatten in my telling, but you bring a special
light to everything. Bajalera may have a very good idea for you. Annie
Live, love and be happy.
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Baja Bernie
`Normal` Nomad Correspondent
Posts: 2962
Registered: 8-31-2003
Location: Sunset Beach
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bajalera
I have been after Sara for well over a year to get on with her writing. She has the ability to reach out and grab people that is a true gift. She
may have learned a bit of it from Don Jimmy but most of it comes from various experiences in getting down in the mud and dirt and living life with
gusto.
If one can have to much talent for her own good it is this lady who seems to spray her talents around as if shot from a machine gun. Hopefully one day
she will decide where she wishes to place her skills (at least until a project is completed) and then we will all be even more blessed.
Shotguns are wonderful at some weddings but in this case I think she needs a laser guided bow and arrow.
Cristos!
My smidgen of a claim to fame is that I have had so many really good friends. By Bernie Swaim December 2007
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Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
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Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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Well yes Bernie, but....
I finshed the funnest little comal the day before yesterday, AND it is hanging in the gallery right below the other one I completed. I know, I know, I
got to take the time to get these photografed and sent to you. I am in the process of another comal right now, and a little collage niche and a major
size painting and I have bucku photos to orgainze and get in to the albums, I am working on some of the funnest clay plac reliefs, you are not going
to believe what is happening to my drawings in these, a new dimminsion I must say, way to exiciting, you'll see soon enough, I hope, I hope.
Leara, if I could turn my writing towards anything of true value, (besides the just plain fun of dancing with words), it would be to bring to the
world the artist I have known and know, to get them out there, published in a sence, that would be a worth while project, I expect. Meanwhile, Bernie
is right, I wake at dawn and start painting before I even comb my hair, the insperations chase after me night and day to aknowledge them in multimal
medias, some times I feel like an a short order cook juggling all the ideas that bombard me. My owly fear being I will run out of life before I get it
all down, and well, we all know if I am lucky, that will surly someday happen. Of course even worse would be to creativly shut down. I had a dry time
for about 8 months after Dad passed on, that was no fun, let me tell you.
Oh que, enough for one day, I am off in serch of some tacos or algo por hay.
Shalom, Sara
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
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Location: Yes
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Eli, we love reading your stuff. We wish we could have put together a visit to Oaxaca! Maybe next time! Hope to see you in Baja sometime soon!
Matt & Barb from Maui! 
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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El Jefe
Super Nomad
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Location: South East Cape
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I just had to step in here and say how much I appreciate the fine musings going down on this thread. The literary glimpses of the "other" that we all
seek during our day to day travails provide that little bit of encouragement folks need to keep the dream alive. Thanks Sara. Thanks Woody. And thanks
to Mike as well. Tom
No b-tchin\' in the Baja.
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Sallysouth
Super Nomad
Posts: 1835
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Capo Beach
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Aye for one!
Think the fine people on the Nomad board should start a Fund for Eli project.Just think,you could travel and visit, teach , share and/or sell some of
your wonderful art,and stories also! Mi dos pesos....
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
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Sara.
I had a passion for putting words on paper early in life. If I don't I find myseld stiffeled. So we put pen to paper or paint to canvas to express
something in our inner selves. Then, sometimes we are appreciated. While that does not drive the passion, it does help you feel your efforts have
some value to others.
Eventually that comes back to beg you to stretch a little further into a creative medium.
Your sensations are superior, the words you throw down on your paper or canvas are appreciated. I hope you know this by now and have a desire to keep
going.
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Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
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Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
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Matt & Barb, well, wow, Maui, no less? Maybe we will yet cross paths on home ground, (BCS), or maybe Oax. next summer to celebrate the rains I hope we
will get?
El Jefe, glad to see your smiling words cross this little thread of sillyness, we really are having to much fun with this one, aren't we? jeje.
Are you kidding Mike, I can't stop, I am obsessd, driven, possibly possed, (god, I need a spell check).
After my pastor tacos last night, which were mighty, mighty tasty by the way, I went home and worked on the latest comal untill 11 p.m., crashed until
5 a.m. and up and at it again, just about have this little piece of love and sillyness ready to place in the gallery today, just got to stick in some
eye balls. It is a symbolagical collage piece of bawdy halirty by the way; Includes a scopian milagro in the crotch of one of it's lady critters, big
boobs hanging on another, tambien, mermaids and a merman, little sticker fishes and stars in the trim, and a peace sign in the belly of one guy,
milagro heart, lock and key, (for sure one of my favorite symbols) for the merman, I am having way to much fun here all by myself.
Still, I agree, the strokes sure feel good, I am purring like a kitty kat about now, you know.
And if we want to really thank someone for getting me up and running with all these words I put down, give Bernie and my Dad their due credit, they
are really and truly behind me pushing me all the way.
Sally - In regard to a beca to keep me going in funds, I need to address my non-existent economic woes on another tread, save your two cents towards
buying some art , there are a lot of starving artist out there creating their hearts out you know.
By the way Hermana, you never stop being an artist if you think you are one. It's like being a poet, if poetry is in your soul, you are whiter you
prose or no.
Oh que, I am off to check out the show at the Mercadito, ya sabes, better than a circus. And than back to the taller, I have a clayplac guy with a
rooster fish, (I think that is where it is going) waiting to be formed and fired.
Sending Ya'All Big Smiles, Hasta La Proximo, Sara
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