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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Copper Canyon Recommendations, please
2 of us are planning an early January trip to the Copper Canyon - from Loreto / Los Mochis.
We are planning on the first class train.
Food and good beds are important to us.
Internet/wifi/cell not important.
Any suggestions about where to stay and meals?
Thanks.
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bajalinda
Senior Nomad
Posts: 551
Registered: 6-7-2008
Location: Pacific Coast, BCS
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We had a great trip to Copper Canyon, but not recently - it was 8 years ago! I'm glad to give you info on the places we stayed, but just keep in mind
it may not be totally up to date. (These places all have websites - check them out.)
We flew La Paz to Los Mochis. Then, taxi from the airport to the bus station downtown. Took the bus from Los Mochis to El Fuerte. Overnight in El
Fuerte because the train leaves El Fuerte at a reasonable hour in the morning, so you have time for breakfast and time to get to the train. If you
get the train in Los Mochis, it means getting up really, really early.
Hotel in El Fuerte: Hotel La Choza - great hotel, would stay there again.
We really liked El Fuerte and were sorry we had planned to stay only one night there. Would have been nice to have a day to see more of the town.
We took the train from El Fuerte to Creel. Stayed one night in Creel at the Parador de la Montana. It was not worth the price at all and I would not
stay there again. Heater in the room was flakey and the place just had a run-down feel to it.
Other people we met stayed at the Casa Margarita's and it was highly recommended. We took a look at it and it looked great - wish we had stayed
there. As a back-up option, there is also a Best Western in Creel.
As for Creel itself, I have to say that we found it far from enchanting. Lots of wood smoke in the air which really bothered Rob. The local
restaurants we chose to eat in were horrible - couldn't seem to find a good meal. (However, those who stayed at Casa Margarita said the food there
was good.)
So we were happy to get in the van to Batopilas the next morning. Hotel in Batopilas: Casa Real de Minas - a lovely small hotel. We loved this
hotel. It's very small - only 5 or 6 rooms around a beautiful, peaceful courtyard. The owner/manager, Martin, was a helpful and wonderful host.
I think we stayed 2 nights in Batopilas, then back to Creel and the train back to Los Mochis. In Los Mochis we stayed at the Monte Carlo and it was
very so-so - wouldn't stay there again. We found Los Mochis to be kind of underwhelming. If I were to make the trip again I'd get off the train in
El Fuerte on the way back. For some reason, the train between El Fuerte and Los Mochis slowed to a ridiculous crawl and we thought we'd never get to
Los Mochis - it took forever.
Hope that helps - have a great trip!
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Thank you, thank you Linda.
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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I suggest you read a book named, "God's Middle Finger." Amazon has it.
"YOU CAN'T LITTER ALUMINUM"
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KurtG
Super Nomad
Posts: 1205
Registered: 1-27-2004
Location: California Central Coast
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Mood: Press On Regardless!!
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My personal opinion is that the author doesn't believe the truth should get in the way of a good story. It is a good story though.
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Mula
Super Nomad
Posts: 1655
Registered: 8-16-2011
Location: San Nicolas y Lopez Mateos
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Thanks Dennis. I already have it and have read it. BajaCalifornian turned me on to that book. I have his other book, too.
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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Quote: Originally posted by KurtG  |
My personal opinion is that the author doesn't believe the truth should get in the way of a good story. It is a good story though.
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'Splain please. Where is his report less than factual?
"YOU CAN'T LITTER ALUMINUM"
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KurtG
Super Nomad
Posts: 1205
Registered: 1-27-2004
Location: California Central Coast
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Mood: Press On Regardless!!
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Just offering my opinion. There is no way to know if the events he described actually happened. It is just my personal opinion that the tale was
sensationalized a bit.
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13196
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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Linda's account sounds remarkably similar to ours. Differences include:
1. I really liked Creel. There is a small museum at the train station that was very interesting. We stayed at a smallish hostel right across the
square in front of the train station. It was very cheap, breakfast was included which gave you a chance to mingle with others. Nothing to write home
about but good beds!
2.Most of the stores there sell carved snakes made by the Indians that are absolutely unique and I have not seen anything remotely similar anywhere
else in Mexico. they were so inexpensive and I bought many and gave them away as gifts that year.
3. We also did not spend more time at El Fuerte and it sure looked interesting.
4. The trip down the mountain to Batopilas was hair raising. One of the only times I have seen my husband pale. and cuss non stop. My faith in God
is so great that I was not worried and my thought process was that the bus drivers do the trip every single day ergo lots of experience. We also
stayed at the REAL DE MINAS hotel. So beautiful.
5. I will look for the bajanomad trip report I did so you can get more info as well as see photos. It was a WONDERFUL experience and I would do it
again in a heartbeat.
6. we found absolutely no difference between first and second class except that 1st had a food wagon. Also, if I am not mistaken, you want to sit on
the RIGHT on the way to Creel and on the LEFT on the way back to get the best views.
[Edited on 8-12-2016 by BajaBlanca]
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13196
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47353#pid5410...
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47357#pid5411...
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47386#pid5597...
[Edited on 8-12-2016 by BajaBlanca]
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fourninerpapa
Junior Nomad
Posts: 40
Registered: 11-2-2008
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Take warm clothing. We were in Creel 4 years ago in January. It got down to 22 deg and snow on the ground. We were not prepared for that at all. Other
than that we had a great time.
Have fun.
Norm
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Sweetwater
Senior Nomad
Posts: 915
Registered: 11-26-2010
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Mood: chilly today hot tomale
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I did a moto trip through the region 4 years ago.
Several of us got eaten up by gnats (noseeums) in El Fuerte.
Since we were on backroads and on motos for 2 weeks, our experience was very different from a tourist visit.
I found the people to be engaging but a lot of militants with assault rifles in all the villages.
We were warned away from a couple of towns, don't go there or within 20 km.
It was so much fun and so interesting, I'd enjoy going again. However, the ultramarathon run out of Urique has been cancelled 2 years running due to
cartel violence and concerns.
The Tarahumara's that we saw were not in good condition and their villages were the poorest I've ever seen.
Edit: The region is massive and with great topography and elevation changes. The advice to bring warm clothes is spot on.
[Edited on 8-12-2016 by Sweetwater]
Everbody\'s preachin\' at me that we all wanna git to heaven, trouble is, nobody wants to die to git there.-BB King
Reality is what does not go away when you stop believing in it. -Philip K Dick
Nothing is worse than active ignorance. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe(1749-1832, German writer, artist and politician)
When choosing between two evils, I always like to try the one I\'ve never tried before. - Mae West
Experience is what keeps a man who makes the same mistake twice from admitting it the third time around.
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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We found Creel fascinating. Probably the biggest disincentive for this trip is the continued cartel activity at the North terminus.
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bajalinda
Senior Nomad
Posts: 551
Registered: 6-7-2008
Location: Pacific Coast, BCS
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Blanca - you're right, that museum by the train station in Creel was interesting. Wish we had felt more comfortable in Creel, but we just didn't.
The little museum in Batopilas was good also. And that drive down the mountain to Batopilas is one we won't forget either.
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bill erhardt
Super Nomad
Posts: 1372
Registered: 4-2-2005
Location: Loreto, BCS
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A great thread, this. I'm sure I'll come back to it when it's time to plan a trip.
Does anybody have a recommendation on the best time of the year to visit CC?
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AKgringo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6027
Registered: 9-20-2014
Location: Anchorage, AK (no mas!)
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Mood: Retireded
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My parents last visit to Mexico was in the 90's, and they did a tour through the Copper Canyon in their motor home, on a flatbed railroad car!
I wouldn't have a clue how to make that arrangement, or if the service is still offered. They enjoyed the experience, but I know that my mom would
have preferred a lot more people to talk to.
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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And, the difference would be....what?
"YOU CAN'T LITTER ALUMINUM"
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wilderone
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3824
Registered: 2-9-2004
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"... my personal opinion that the tale was sensationalized a bit." My opinion as well. He actually goes into a bar in the heart of narco land, and
asks around about drugs.
Anyway, for a Copper Canyon trip, I would recommend staying in El Fuerte and going for a hike across the river to see the Nahuatl petroglyphs. Hotel
Posada del Hidalgo is very charming - they have a restaurant. Checked out Rio Vista hotel - quirky, view of the river. We stayed at a 3-room motel of
sorts, that had a pool, run by a gringo from Sacramento (her husband's family owned the land). Anyway, includes breakfast - our taxi driver suggested
it and we were pleased. Ask about the restaurant that is famous for its garlic soup.
I would also recommend getting off the train at Divisadero. The hotels there are pricey, but right on the canyon rim. Worth the money IMO. Tarahumara
women come to the hotels and weave baskets - they'll teach you how -- and sell stuff. There are also horseback rides into the canyon. We rode about
half-way down to a family's home and visited a while, and returned.
Yes, go to Batopilas too. Take the local bus - not the tourist van. Get your tickets the night before (bus leaves early - about 7 am?). The bus ride
is an event in itself. The village is walkable and interesting; hike along the river to Satevo.
And be warned that some people hog the open air spaces between rail cars to take photos and don't play nice. If you want this space as well for
sight-seeing, you'll need to devise a plan. Three of us would take turns at "our spot", so as not to lose it.
You'll have a blast.
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wilderone
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3824
Registered: 2-9-2004
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The Zetas are aggressive, offensive types whose business is multinational criminal activity and will annihilate those who get in their way; the
Zapatistas are simply defending the exploitation of their land and defending their lives from Mexican military with orders to annihilate them and take
their land for multinational profit. A tourist is welcome in Zapatista comunities; a tourist is a threat to a Zeta.
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crowbar
Newbie
Posts: 21
Registered: 12-20-2013
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Copper Canyon Trip
I went in March 2015. Hot during the day but ice on windshields in morning in Creel. Trip pictures are posted in non baja trips
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